Entertainment: September 2007 Archives
Wow! Another incredible weekend in Madrid. Question: "Am I Spanish Yet?!" When do I get my Merit Badge?
It all started Friday afternoon when I met my good Valencian friend Damián for a paella lunch at La Buganvilla. La Buganvilla is an "Arrocería"
- a restaurant which specializes in rice dishes. AND DO THEY
SPECIALIZE! Wow, what a great meal we had. VERY complete from beginning
to end.
It's located just off the Plaza Alonso Martinez (metro: Alonso Martinez) in a nice, clean, somewhat upscale neighborhood in an elegant building. We had reservations to try this place as it was purported to have "The Best Paella in Madrid". So I just had to try it!
We arrived and were first toured the restaurant and its many small rooms - each with about 5 tables - when we were seated. The restaurant had a mariner's "theme" and was exceptionally clean top to bottom. Many nicely-dressed people eating their rice dishes around us.
I'm so happy Damián went with me to this place because everyone knows that Valenciano's - as Damián is - are connoisseurs of rice dishes, paellas, and the like. Who better to advise me on the ins-and-outs of rice and to judge the quality of such? Damián was the right man for the job. Not only is he great company, intelligent, and a conversationalist (in both English and Spanish) but he also really knows his rice, something his mother makes very well, as he described in mouth-watering detail.
We started with croquetas de marisco (seafood croquets) on a bed of lettuce. Very good, hot, tasty. At the waiters suggestion, we ordered the "Arroz Mixta" served in a paella pan. This has rabbit, chicken, clams, shrimp, squid (I think) and rice cooked to near perfection. Damián said it was the best rice he'd had in Madrid so far. So there you go! If HE says it was good - it's good. The bread was very good as was the bottle of red wine, a Rioja which was suggested by the waiter - something we felt was odd with a paella meal as it's usually more appropriate to choose a white or rosé wine with rice dishes.
After the meal, I chose a berry sorbet and Damián had an elegantly "sculpted" chocolate affair with swirls of this and that across the plate. To top it all off we were offered "chupitos" (selection of liqueurs) to..."help aid digestion". I love this reason/excuse. We tried all 4 of the liquers; crema de orujo, liquer de hierbas, orujo, and another one I can't remember. Wow. That's some hard-yet-tasty alcohol! Sure warmed the digesting contents in my stomach!
After the delicious meal, we spoke at length with our host, Miguel Ángel, who had come to our table several times throughout the meal to see if everything was to our liking - IT WAS! Damián made some comments and observations of the likenesses and differences in this paella and the paellas he's had in Valencia.
What a positive experience. What a good meal. And what good company! Damián and I said our goodbyes, I got on the metro and went home for a few hours of work.
A little later I took the bus BACK downtown and met some friends who were going to a play in the Teatro Albéniz. We had a few beers at the "El Anciano rey de los vinos", a VERY old bar across the street from the theater on Calle de La Paz, 4. This place is small and SPANISH SPANISH. It was in this bar where I saw well-known veteran flamenco dancer "El Guito" just before watching him dance at the same Teatro Albéniz last spring. He was sitting right next to me with his flamenco colleagues.
The friends went to the play and I was on my way back home and decided to stop in the Plaza Mayor to have a "caña" (small glass of beer). I started in the corner bar of the Plaza Mayor nearest the Arco de Cuchilleros and had one beer in each of those three bars while making my way "left", each place giving a free tapa with the drink order. Two places gave a plate of olives and one place gave a kind of salad mixture of onion-octopus for the free tapa.
After the third place, I walked around the gallery of the Plaza Mayor to the far side where I stopped in at the "Bar La Torre del Oro". This place has bullfight memorabilia, framed photos, and STUFFED BULL'S HEADS adorning (??) the walls. This too is a VERY Spanish bar for its bartenders but the clientèle is mostly tourists but there are always a few Spaniards peppering this bar. They too ALWAYS give a free tapa with each drink. (a dish of white beans + small cup of gazpacho for me) The bartenders are always cheerful and friendly too. I had one beer and started talking to the traveling Australians to my left as they commented on the bullfight stuff surrounding them. The conversation was good so I ordered another beer - my last - before heading to my bus stop in the Plaza de Isabel Segundo and got home at about 11:30pm - STRAIGHT TO BED with a heavy head.
Saturday. Slept late. Wow. Whoaaa... Rollll slowly out of bed, have breakfast, and get to work until lunchtime. At about 4pm I leave the house for a bus+metro trip to meet my English buddy Steve at Plaza de Toros Las Ventas for the 5:30pm bullfights. This was a bullfight with younger bullfighters so the price was cheap (13€) for decent seats. After the "event" we made our way to the same nearby bullfight-themed bar we found at which we found ourselves the previous weekend after the bullfights; the Restaurante Los Clarines, just off the Calle de Alcalá as heading into the city.
This time we did not go for the Rabo de Toro but instead went all seafood, ordering a ración of the Gambas al Ajillo (olive-oil-cooked shrimp and garlic) AND, again, the lemon-juice-showered Chopitos (small, lightly breaded, fried squid) along with good bread ("¡para mojar!"). This time they served us 30% more chopitos than the last time! All this great food and we ordered a bottle of cold white Rueda wine. Wow, that goes down easily with seafood. Mmmm... The 50-something Spanish bartender now seemed to remember us from the previous weekend and give us a free tapas to start off, later another free tapa of salchichón (a kind of sliced sausage), AND FINALLY, a free glass of sorbete de cava for dessert. The all-Spanish wait-staff is always very nice with us, we, the ONLY NON SPANIARDS IN THE PLACE. We felt privileged to be there, in their company.
Full, heavy headed, and happy, Steve and I say our goodbyes and I make my way to the nearby metro station. Arrive home. Alka-Seltzer. A big glass of water with a couple aspirins just-in-case. Bed.
Sunday, today, is mostly uneventful, just doing some work by morning, had Chinese food for lunch (I know, NOT very "Spanish" - but give me a break once in awhile, eh?! hehehe...), and reading about yesterday's/Saturday's United States university football games. My Ohio State Buckeyes beat University of Minnesota and going UP in the POLLS!
So today is DEFINITELY "a day of rest" for me. I've been in Spanish-Overdrive for the last two days. Tomorrow begins a new week in Madrid! Autumn's here, it's obvious. Skies are more often cloudy, cooler temperatures, and the sunsets are earlier and further to the southern horizon. I'd rather be nowhere else in the world.
It all started Friday afternoon when I met my good Valencian friend Damián for a paella lunch at La Buganvilla. La Buganvilla is an "Arrocería"
- a restaurant which specializes in rice dishes. AND DO THEY
SPECIALIZE! Wow, what a great meal we had. VERY complete from beginning
to end.It's located just off the Plaza Alonso Martinez (metro: Alonso Martinez) in a nice, clean, somewhat upscale neighborhood in an elegant building. We had reservations to try this place as it was purported to have "The Best Paella in Madrid". So I just had to try it!
We arrived and were first toured the restaurant and its many small rooms - each with about 5 tables - when we were seated. The restaurant had a mariner's "theme" and was exceptionally clean top to bottom. Many nicely-dressed people eating their rice dishes around us.
I'm so happy Damián went with me to this place because everyone knows that Valenciano's - as Damián is - are connoisseurs of rice dishes, paellas, and the like. Who better to advise me on the ins-and-outs of rice and to judge the quality of such? Damián was the right man for the job. Not only is he great company, intelligent, and a conversationalist (in both English and Spanish) but he also really knows his rice, something his mother makes very well, as he described in mouth-watering detail.
We started with croquetas de marisco (seafood croquets) on a bed of lettuce. Very good, hot, tasty. At the waiters suggestion, we ordered the "Arroz Mixta" served in a paella pan. This has rabbit, chicken, clams, shrimp, squid (I think) and rice cooked to near perfection. Damián said it was the best rice he'd had in Madrid so far. So there you go! If HE says it was good - it's good. The bread was very good as was the bottle of red wine, a Rioja which was suggested by the waiter - something we felt was odd with a paella meal as it's usually more appropriate to choose a white or rosé wine with rice dishes.
After the meal, I chose a berry sorbet and Damián had an elegantly "sculpted" chocolate affair with swirls of this and that across the plate. To top it all off we were offered "chupitos" (selection of liqueurs) to..."help aid digestion". I love this reason/excuse. We tried all 4 of the liquers; crema de orujo, liquer de hierbas, orujo, and another one I can't remember. Wow. That's some hard-yet-tasty alcohol! Sure warmed the digesting contents in my stomach!
After the delicious meal, we spoke at length with our host, Miguel Ángel, who had come to our table several times throughout the meal to see if everything was to our liking - IT WAS! Damián made some comments and observations of the likenesses and differences in this paella and the paellas he's had in Valencia.
What a positive experience. What a good meal. And what good company! Damián and I said our goodbyes, I got on the metro and went home for a few hours of work.
A little later I took the bus BACK downtown and met some friends who were going to a play in the Teatro Albéniz. We had a few beers at the "El Anciano rey de los vinos", a VERY old bar across the street from the theater on Calle de La Paz, 4. This place is small and SPANISH SPANISH. It was in this bar where I saw well-known veteran flamenco dancer "El Guito" just before watching him dance at the same Teatro Albéniz last spring. He was sitting right next to me with his flamenco colleagues.
The friends went to the play and I was on my way back home and decided to stop in the Plaza Mayor to have a "caña" (small glass of beer). I started in the corner bar of the Plaza Mayor nearest the Arco de Cuchilleros and had one beer in each of those three bars while making my way "left", each place giving a free tapa with the drink order. Two places gave a plate of olives and one place gave a kind of salad mixture of onion-octopus for the free tapa.
After the third place, I walked around the gallery of the Plaza Mayor to the far side where I stopped in at the "Bar La Torre del Oro". This place has bullfight memorabilia, framed photos, and STUFFED BULL'S HEADS adorning (??) the walls. This too is a VERY Spanish bar for its bartenders but the clientèle is mostly tourists but there are always a few Spaniards peppering this bar. They too ALWAYS give a free tapa with each drink. (a dish of white beans + small cup of gazpacho for me) The bartenders are always cheerful and friendly too. I had one beer and started talking to the traveling Australians to my left as they commented on the bullfight stuff surrounding them. The conversation was good so I ordered another beer - my last - before heading to my bus stop in the Plaza de Isabel Segundo and got home at about 11:30pm - STRAIGHT TO BED with a heavy head.Saturday. Slept late. Wow. Whoaaa... Rollll slowly out of bed, have breakfast, and get to work until lunchtime. At about 4pm I leave the house for a bus+metro trip to meet my English buddy Steve at Plaza de Toros Las Ventas for the 5:30pm bullfights. This was a bullfight with younger bullfighters so the price was cheap (13€) for decent seats. After the "event" we made our way to the same nearby bullfight-themed bar we found at which we found ourselves the previous weekend after the bullfights; the Restaurante Los Clarines, just off the Calle de Alcalá as heading into the city.
This time we did not go for the Rabo de Toro but instead went all seafood, ordering a ración of the Gambas al Ajillo (olive-oil-cooked shrimp and garlic) AND, again, the lemon-juice-showered Chopitos (small, lightly breaded, fried squid) along with good bread ("¡para mojar!"). This time they served us 30% more chopitos than the last time! All this great food and we ordered a bottle of cold white Rueda wine. Wow, that goes down easily with seafood. Mmmm... The 50-something Spanish bartender now seemed to remember us from the previous weekend and give us a free tapas to start off, later another free tapa of salchichón (a kind of sliced sausage), AND FINALLY, a free glass of sorbete de cava for dessert. The all-Spanish wait-staff is always very nice with us, we, the ONLY NON SPANIARDS IN THE PLACE. We felt privileged to be there, in their company.
Full, heavy headed, and happy, Steve and I say our goodbyes and I make my way to the nearby metro station. Arrive home. Alka-Seltzer. A big glass of water with a couple aspirins just-in-case. Bed.
Sunday, today, is mostly uneventful, just doing some work by morning, had Chinese food for lunch (I know, NOT very "Spanish" - but give me a break once in awhile, eh?! hehehe...), and reading about yesterday's/Saturday's United States university football games. My Ohio State Buckeyes beat University of Minnesota and going UP in the POLLS!
So today is DEFINITELY "a day of rest" for me. I've been in Spanish-Overdrive for the last two days. Tomorrow begins a new week in Madrid! Autumn's here, it's obvious. Skies are more often cloudy, cooler temperatures, and the sunsets are earlier and further to the southern horizon. I'd rather be nowhere else in the world.
Two weekends ago I went to a flamenco show at Corral de la Pacheca and last Saturday night I went to one at Las Tablas. Both were very different shows in very different places.
Corral de la Pacheca is obviously built for visitors (i.e. tourist), has a very large indoor space, and houses overhanging second-level above. The views are great from up there, easy to see the very large stage. It's all located near the Plaza Castilla and in a very nice neighborhood. Meals are served but we were there for just the show and the free-drink included. The show was good and included a large "cast". One of the dancers really impressed us and imagine she'll be famous someday soon - certainly she's well known already. I also heard this place, Corral de la Pacheca, was the location for a weekly 1980s program on Madrid television where they hosted different flamenco singers, many of already famous - or would-be famous. The clientèle was totally non-Spanish.
Las Tablas is well-located near the Plaza España on the second level of the building facing the Cuesta de San Vicente. To enter you must go around the back and up the stairs. The owners, Antonia (left in photo) y Marisol (right in photo), were also the dancers when the show started. They were both very obviously technicians in their art and we enjoyed watching the show. The stage is smaller, lower, and a bit more difficult to see the feet of the dancers. We were also very impressed with the singers. No smoking was allowed during the performance and no flash was allowed for photos either - making photo-taking nearly impossible. Still, the show was good and the price was cheaper (22€) than any flamenco tablao I'd visited. The place is smaller than most and does not have the typical rustic "tablao" look but I was told by one of the owners that the space is also used for theater, photo expositions, and other artistic events so this is why they decided to go with a more neutral decor. There's no kitchen so food cannot be ordered - which is probably why the entry prices are cheaper - but one drink is included in the entry price. The clientèle was mainly Spanish.
What a last week it's been for me. The more things like this I do the more I feel I'm becoming SPANISH! But surely no Spaniards live like me!
So first I go to Corral de la Pacheca on a Friday night (14 Sept.). Monday (17 Sept.) I go for a good Paella Valenciana lunch at Restaurante La Paella de la Reina (see photo at right), then after-lunch drinks in the Plaza de Chueca. Wednesday I get together with the guys for the movie, drinks on a terraza afterwards, and then dinner on the Plaza Mayor! Friday I'm downtown again taking late-afternoon and evening photos of the city, later getting together with friends for a tapas dinner near Puerta del Sol. Last Saturday night I'm having jamón serrano, lomo, y queso at a nearby bar before the flamenco show at Las Tablas. Sunday I'm at the bullfights in Las Ventas. After that we have rabo de toro (bull's tail stew) and chopitos (very small, fried squid) at a nearby bar/restaurant while watching a Real Madrid game on TV, getting home at 1am.
Is this the true "Spanish Life"? Doubt it. But I'm enjoying it nonetheless.
Corral de la Pacheca is obviously built for visitors (i.e. tourist), has a very large indoor space, and houses overhanging second-level above. The views are great from up there, easy to see the very large stage. It's all located near the Plaza Castilla and in a very nice neighborhood. Meals are served but we were there for just the show and the free-drink included. The show was good and included a large "cast". One of the dancers really impressed us and imagine she'll be famous someday soon - certainly she's well known already. I also heard this place, Corral de la Pacheca, was the location for a weekly 1980s program on Madrid television where they hosted different flamenco singers, many of already famous - or would-be famous. The clientèle was totally non-Spanish.Las Tablas is well-located near the Plaza España on the second level of the building facing the Cuesta de San Vicente. To enter you must go around the back and up the stairs. The owners, Antonia (left in photo) y Marisol (right in photo), were also the dancers when the show started. They were both very obviously technicians in their art and we enjoyed watching the show. The stage is smaller, lower, and a bit more difficult to see the feet of the dancers. We were also very impressed with the singers. No smoking was allowed during the performance and no flash was allowed for photos either - making photo-taking nearly impossible. Still, the show was good and the price was cheaper (22€) than any flamenco tablao I'd visited. The place is smaller than most and does not have the typical rustic "tablao" look but I was told by one of the owners that the space is also used for theater, photo expositions, and other artistic events so this is why they decided to go with a more neutral decor. There's no kitchen so food cannot be ordered - which is probably why the entry prices are cheaper - but one drink is included in the entry price. The clientèle was mainly Spanish.What a last week it's been for me. The more things like this I do the more I feel I'm becoming SPANISH! But surely no Spaniards live like me!
So first I go to Corral de la Pacheca on a Friday night (14 Sept.). Monday (17 Sept.) I go for a good Paella Valenciana lunch at Restaurante La Paella de la Reina (see photo at right), then after-lunch drinks in the Plaza de Chueca. Wednesday I get together with the guys for the movie, drinks on a terraza afterwards, and then dinner on the Plaza Mayor! Friday I'm downtown again taking late-afternoon and evening photos of the city, later getting together with friends for a tapas dinner near Puerta del Sol. Last Saturday night I'm having jamón serrano, lomo, y queso at a nearby bar before the flamenco show at Las Tablas. Sunday I'm at the bullfights in Las Ventas. After that we have rabo de toro (bull's tail stew) and chopitos (very small, fried squid) at a nearby bar/restaurant while watching a Real Madrid game on TV, getting home at 1am.
Is this the true "Spanish Life"? Doubt it. But I'm enjoying it nonetheless.
Sometimes it's like that. Get-togethers with friends can be fine, good,
or leave you feeling really really fortunate to know such wonderful
people. (of course drinking lots of good beer helps too)
Yesterday, we had another Movie with MadridMan gathering as discussed on the message board. We went to see "La Jungla 4.0", or "Die Hard 4.0", or "Live Free or Die Hard" as it was named in the USA. Wow. What a movie. I REALLY enjoyed it - lots of rather unbelievable action as is the recipe for Hollywood movies of this type. It was MUCH better than "Die Hard 3". Bruce Willis can STILL be an action hero, I say.
Anyway, message board members Jamongris, Valenciano_en_Madrid, & I met at the Cine Ideal where they show (mainly) American movies in Versión Original with subtitles in Spanish. Got our tickets and chose middle-center seats in the theater which, by movie's start, housed about 10 person for the 4:30pm movie. I was NEVER bored during all the action, but exercised lots of eye-rolling with each inhuman action scene. Action, explosions, fights and falls but not very bloody and several tongue-in-cheek statements by Willis as is his "motus operandi" in these DIE HARD movies.
Yesterday, we had another Movie with MadridMan gathering as discussed on the message board. We went to see "La Jungla 4.0", or "Die Hard 4.0", or "Live Free or Die Hard" as it was named in the USA. Wow. What a movie. I REALLY enjoyed it - lots of rather unbelievable action as is the recipe for Hollywood movies of this type. It was MUCH better than "Die Hard 3". Bruce Willis can STILL be an action hero, I say.
Anyway, message board members Jamongris, Valenciano_en_Madrid, & I met at the Cine Ideal where they show (mainly) American movies in Versión Original with subtitles in Spanish. Got our tickets and chose middle-center seats in the theater which, by movie's start, housed about 10 person for the 4:30pm movie. I was NEVER bored during all the action, but exercised lots of eye-rolling with each inhuman action scene. Action, explosions, fights and falls but not very bloody and several tongue-in-cheek statements by Willis as is his "motus operandi" in these DIE HARD movies.
So enough about the movie. We nodded to each other with entertained facial expressions upon leaving the theater and headed out into the street. "Okay! Now what?" Valenciano_en_Madrid offered to take us to one of his favorite bars in Madrid. It's called CafeeKe and is located near the base of the steps of the Arco de Cuchilleros (just out of above photo to the right) on Plaza Mayor's southwestern corner. I called my buddy Steve and he joined us there soon after arriving. Got a nice 4-person table on the terrace with good views.
Time passed as fast as topics of conversation and consumption of delicious Belgian beer (called Chimay, I think). The generous waiters (from Morocco and Cuba) were great, friendly, talkative, and gave us good cheese cubes and nut-mixers for free tapas with our somewhat pricey beers. MAN, how time flies when you're enjoying yourself. Before we knew it it was about 10pm and TWO of us had to get make trains and buses to get home before it was too late.
Steve and I, having more flexible work (?) schedules, decided to walk
through the Plaza Mayor on the way to our respective homes. Steve says,
"Shall we have a last drink? And maybe something to eat? I'm hungry."
Eh! Why not. We look around the still-crowded Plaza Mayor and try to
decide on an overpriced, touristy terrazas. But which one? They're ALL
so wonderfully touristy! hehehe... How 'bout La Torre de Oro?
Sounds good to me. We sit down at the terrace near Plaza Mayor's
northwestern corner and the waiter approaches immediately. OKAY! Let's
go wild! We chose a high-priced Gambas al Ajillo and the Chopitos. All turned out to be fair-to-good. Wine for Steve and beer for me.
Chit chat, enjoy the view of the illuminated paintings of the northern side's "Casa de la Panaderia", drink, eat, more chit-chat. I notice a table of 3 American girls/women at the adjacent table and we all begin to talk. They're from Chicago and just off the boat (plane) in Madrid, arrived that day. They're staying for quite awhile it turns out, all English teachers.
Once again, time flies, the girls/women leave, the bar starts to turn off its lights, and Steve and I shake hands and say our goodbyes until next time. I walk towards OPERA where I usually catch my bus but I know it's already too late for that. It's shut down for the night and so I'm in no hurry to get there. Will take the metro at Opera instead.
What a walk. My head's full of memories and beer. I'm walking down one of Madrid's narrow streets in Old Town. It's after midnight. And then a smile crosses my face when it hits me. $%/*&! I'M IN MADRID!!!!! It happens like that sometimes. Joy washes over me like a summer rain - or maybe it's just the warm beer, or something, I spilled down my leg. JUST KIDDING! But regardless (or "irregardless" as a masters degree-educated former coworker used to constantly say, making me crazy!), I'm in heaven on earth. I'm in Madrid. Hope I never wake up from this dream come true.
Photo from left: Steve (UK), Jamongris (UK), Valenciano_en_Madrid (ESP), & MadridMan (USA)
Time passed as fast as topics of conversation and consumption of delicious Belgian beer (called Chimay, I think). The generous waiters (from Morocco and Cuba) were great, friendly, talkative, and gave us good cheese cubes and nut-mixers for free tapas with our somewhat pricey beers. MAN, how time flies when you're enjoying yourself. Before we knew it it was about 10pm and TWO of us had to get make trains and buses to get home before it was too late.
Steve and I, having more flexible work (?) schedules, decided to walk
through the Plaza Mayor on the way to our respective homes. Steve says,
"Shall we have a last drink? And maybe something to eat? I'm hungry."
Eh! Why not. We look around the still-crowded Plaza Mayor and try to
decide on an overpriced, touristy terrazas. But which one? They're ALL
so wonderfully touristy! hehehe... How 'bout La Torre de Oro?
Sounds good to me. We sit down at the terrace near Plaza Mayor's
northwestern corner and the waiter approaches immediately. OKAY! Let's
go wild! We chose a high-priced Gambas al Ajillo and the Chopitos. All turned out to be fair-to-good. Wine for Steve and beer for me.Chit chat, enjoy the view of the illuminated paintings of the northern side's "Casa de la Panaderia", drink, eat, more chit-chat. I notice a table of 3 American girls/women at the adjacent table and we all begin to talk. They're from Chicago and just off the boat (plane) in Madrid, arrived that day. They're staying for quite awhile it turns out, all English teachers.
Once again, time flies, the girls/women leave, the bar starts to turn off its lights, and Steve and I shake hands and say our goodbyes until next time. I walk towards OPERA where I usually catch my bus but I know it's already too late for that. It's shut down for the night and so I'm in no hurry to get there. Will take the metro at Opera instead.
What a walk. My head's full of memories and beer. I'm walking down one of Madrid's narrow streets in Old Town. It's after midnight. And then a smile crosses my face when it hits me. $%/*&! I'M IN MADRID!!!!! It happens like that sometimes. Joy washes over me like a summer rain - or maybe it's just the warm beer, or something, I spilled down my leg. JUST KIDDING! But regardless (or "irregardless" as a masters degree-educated former coworker used to constantly say, making me crazy!), I'm in heaven on earth. I'm in Madrid. Hope I never wake up from this dream come true.
¡De Madrid al Cielo!
One of the most common emails I receive (apart from the usual, "Can you recommend a incredibly wonderful, incredibly cheap place to stay in the heart of downtown Madrid?") is about Flamenco in Madrid.
Understandably, travelers want to see the best of the best, the most authentic flamenco which exists in Madrid and Spain. I've been to a number of Flamenco Tablaos in Madrid - places which feature flamenco singing & dancing - and have witnessed some very impressive flamenco dancing but also some very average flamenco dancing. As with anything, the more one experiences/witnesses the more one can discern, appreciate, distinguish one from another.
And since I haven't visited ALL of the tablaos in Madrid I can't very easily recommend one over another, I can only mention those which I've personally visited but can also give suggestions based on the reviews of others.
Last weekend I went to a show at the enormous Corral de la Pacheca up near the Plaza Castilla. This coming weekend I'm going to one at Las Tablas near the Plaza de España. A few months ago I saw another show at Café de Chintas and REALLY enjoyed that one - seemed very technically expert (as described by one flamenco friends who went with me). I also very much enjoyed last June's show at Corral de la Moreria, near Las Vistillas of the Viaducto. And was fortunate enough to attend bout 8 flamenco performances (mostly singing, jazz fusion, but some dancing too) at last May's Suma Flamenca 2007 flamenco festival. Wow. That was a GREAT series. I'm still waiting, looking forward to visiting the much famed - probably the most famous flamenco tablao in Madrid - Casa Patas. Can't believe this one has escaped me so long.
My list is experiences is growing but have far to go. There are something like 15 Madrid tablaos which have websites but probably 50 without websites. I'm focusing on those which have websites as those are the ones mostly likely the traveler will "trust". (i.e. does anyone, anymore, book hotels without seeing them online first?? I don't think so.)
Note about food: Generally speaking, flamenco tablaos are not known for their high quality or of food (usually just "average") - plus it's always very expensive. I always recommend people eat out elsewhere and then go to their 10pm or midnight flamenco show. Tablaos nearly always offer you a free (first) drink and some snack for sometimes half the price of a dinner+show entry. The service/servers/waiters I've seen at tablaos have always been very professional, well-dressed men (almost never women). And ALWAYS make reservations for shows - they're often sold out on the weekends.
It's my deduction that flamenco comes to you in many ways. Some appear more spontaneous. Others a appear very choreographed. Others make you shudder with disbelief. Sometimes they make you yawn and wonder how that dancer ever got a job - but this is pretty rare. Thing about flamenco shows is several individual dancers will dance at any given flamenco (usually about 6) show so you can kind of compare one dancer to the next within the same show.
Who dances flamenco? Anyone can DANCE flamenco in Spain but the flamenco shows are performed (nearly) exclusively by the Gypsy people. Many gypsy people - most often very poor - learn to dance, sing, clap, and play basic flamenco music from a very young age for their own entertainment, culture, and expression but I fear this is beginning to change. More and more gypsy families have OTHER outlets for entertainment and expression these days, big screen TVs, PlayStations, etcetera.
Here in my neighborhood there are many many gypsy families. It's very common to hear groups of young girls clapping their hands (as palmeras) in "flamenco rhythm" and singing saetas with already expert voices (to my UNexpert ears, that is). When I hear this on the street, in stores, or from my window I can't help but be impressed, honored, fortunate to hear it live and spontaneous. When I express my impression to SPANIARDS they simply shrug their shoulders and say, "That's just the way they are. They learn these things young. Everyone knows that!" One time I was in a local store and there was a toddler, maybe 5 years old, and she was singing a saeta with vocal patterns which just astonished me! There I was with my jaw hanging open in disbelief and no one else around me even noticed her.
People also are aware that in some Madrid bars flamenco will spontaneously "break out" and dancers will entertain the crowds. I've only seen this once so it's a hit-or-miss proposition. These anomalous occurrences have been mentioned on the internet and so people ask me WHERE they can see something Spontaneous! If I knew this and if I knew when it would happen then it wouldn't be very spontaneous, would it?? Travelers often have an image of Spain which is outdated or unrealistic or something the read about in a book. I'm sure that, particularly in the south of Spain, you could be seated at a bar and someone would start playing a guitar and then someone would become inspired, stand up, and dance around the room. Did this reallllly happen??? Maybe so. At leasts that's the way it happens in the 1950s black and white Spanish movies.
Flamenco tablaos in Madrid are places to see flamenco shows. And who pays for flamenco shows? The short and easy answer is TOURISTS. Gypsies, unless they're famous flamenco performers or aficionados, never go see other gypsies singing and dancing. They can get that at home! Tourists pay to see flamenco because, hey!, they're in Spain! And what do you DO in Spain on vacation? 1) See a flamenco show, 2) Drink Sangria, 3) See a bullfight, 4) Eat Paella, 5) sit on a terraza no matter the season. So don't think you're not getting the authentic Spanish experience since you're seated with dozens of other tourists. You're there to watch flamenco and in a Madrid tablao is where you're going to get it - the ONLY place you're going to get it.
Don't think gypsies walk out their doors and walk into the Madrid flamenco tablao clubs, go up on stage, and perform impressively. Nope. It doesn't work that way. The best flamenco dancers/performers undertake years and years of instruction in some of the finest dance academies in Spain before they're ready to perform professionally - and before the tablaos will even consider hiring them.
So WHERE are you going to get "authentic" flamenco in Madrid? At any one of the Madrid flamenco tablaos. That's as authentic as it gets, really. But generally speaking, some of the most enjoyable shows are in the smaller, more intimate clubs. The downside of this is that IF they're small, they're not making much money. And IF they're not making much money, they can't afford the best dancers. So if they're not the best dancers, you're not likely seeing a high quality performances. I've seen performances in small rooms with 5 tables placed around a very small dance floor (in Granada) and enjoyed the performance. The dancer was young, probably still studying her art, and gave a good show to the few onlookers. This was enjoyable but even I could tell she had a ways to go with her technique.
History/Geography Lesson: Flamenco is historically a southern-Spain art form, in Analucía like Sevilla and Granada, but Madrid is a common place to find it too. In recent years, Madrid has been pushing hard to be better known for high quality flamenco and they're slowly achieving "market share" on that front. If you go much further north in Spain it's more odd, rare, strange to find flamenco at all. Many cities, however, will have a few flamenco tablaos to please the tourists. In Barcelona, I remember seeing lines outside of a Barcelona flamenco tablao and also cold-weather outdoor terraces packed with paella-eating, sangria-drinking, winter-coat-wearing tourists. Barcelona IS HISTORICALLY NOT the place for any of these things - except the winter coats in colder weather - so it looks out of place to my now more educated eyes.
Special Note: Depending on the flamenco tablao, oftentimes if you go to the 10pm show they will not kick you out at the start of the midnight show so you can double your pleasure for the price of one show.
So bite the traveler's bullet and go see a flamenco show in one of the well-known, tourist-laden tablaos and try to overlook the tourists. They're there for the same reason you're there; to enjoy a flamenco show in Madrid.
Saludos, MadridMan
Understandably, travelers want to see the best of the best, the most authentic flamenco which exists in Madrid and Spain. I've been to a number of Flamenco Tablaos in Madrid - places which feature flamenco singing & dancing - and have witnessed some very impressive flamenco dancing but also some very average flamenco dancing. As with anything, the more one experiences/witnesses the more one can discern, appreciate, distinguish one from another.
And since I haven't visited ALL of the tablaos in Madrid I can't very easily recommend one over another, I can only mention those which I've personally visited but can also give suggestions based on the reviews of others.
Last weekend I went to a show at the enormous Corral de la Pacheca up near the Plaza Castilla. This coming weekend I'm going to one at Las Tablas near the Plaza de España. A few months ago I saw another show at Café de Chintas and REALLY enjoyed that one - seemed very technically expert (as described by one flamenco friends who went with me). I also very much enjoyed last June's show at Corral de la Moreria, near Las Vistillas of the Viaducto. And was fortunate enough to attend bout 8 flamenco performances (mostly singing, jazz fusion, but some dancing too) at last May's Suma Flamenca 2007 flamenco festival. Wow. That was a GREAT series. I'm still waiting, looking forward to visiting the much famed - probably the most famous flamenco tablao in Madrid - Casa Patas. Can't believe this one has escaped me so long.
My list is experiences is growing but have far to go. There are something like 15 Madrid tablaos which have websites but probably 50 without websites. I'm focusing on those which have websites as those are the ones mostly likely the traveler will "trust". (i.e. does anyone, anymore, book hotels without seeing them online first?? I don't think so.)Note about food: Generally speaking, flamenco tablaos are not known for their high quality or of food (usually just "average") - plus it's always very expensive. I always recommend people eat out elsewhere and then go to their 10pm or midnight flamenco show. Tablaos nearly always offer you a free (first) drink and some snack for sometimes half the price of a dinner+show entry. The service/servers/waiters I've seen at tablaos have always been very professional, well-dressed men (almost never women). And ALWAYS make reservations for shows - they're often sold out on the weekends.
It's my deduction that flamenco comes to you in many ways. Some appear more spontaneous. Others a appear very choreographed. Others make you shudder with disbelief. Sometimes they make you yawn and wonder how that dancer ever got a job - but this is pretty rare. Thing about flamenco shows is several individual dancers will dance at any given flamenco (usually about 6) show so you can kind of compare one dancer to the next within the same show.
Who dances flamenco? Anyone can DANCE flamenco in Spain but the flamenco shows are performed (nearly) exclusively by the Gypsy people. Many gypsy people - most often very poor - learn to dance, sing, clap, and play basic flamenco music from a very young age for their own entertainment, culture, and expression but I fear this is beginning to change. More and more gypsy families have OTHER outlets for entertainment and expression these days, big screen TVs, PlayStations, etcetera.Here in my neighborhood there are many many gypsy families. It's very common to hear groups of young girls clapping their hands (as palmeras) in "flamenco rhythm" and singing saetas with already expert voices (to my UNexpert ears, that is). When I hear this on the street, in stores, or from my window I can't help but be impressed, honored, fortunate to hear it live and spontaneous. When I express my impression to SPANIARDS they simply shrug their shoulders and say, "That's just the way they are. They learn these things young. Everyone knows that!" One time I was in a local store and there was a toddler, maybe 5 years old, and she was singing a saeta with vocal patterns which just astonished me! There I was with my jaw hanging open in disbelief and no one else around me even noticed her.
People also are aware that in some Madrid bars flamenco will spontaneously "break out" and dancers will entertain the crowds. I've only seen this once so it's a hit-or-miss proposition. These anomalous occurrences have been mentioned on the internet and so people ask me WHERE they can see something Spontaneous! If I knew this and if I knew when it would happen then it wouldn't be very spontaneous, would it?? Travelers often have an image of Spain which is outdated or unrealistic or something the read about in a book. I'm sure that, particularly in the south of Spain, you could be seated at a bar and someone would start playing a guitar and then someone would become inspired, stand up, and dance around the room. Did this reallllly happen??? Maybe so. At leasts that's the way it happens in the 1950s black and white Spanish movies.
Flamenco tablaos in Madrid are places to see flamenco shows. And who pays for flamenco shows? The short and easy answer is TOURISTS. Gypsies, unless they're famous flamenco performers or aficionados, never go see other gypsies singing and dancing. They can get that at home! Tourists pay to see flamenco because, hey!, they're in Spain! And what do you DO in Spain on vacation? 1) See a flamenco show, 2) Drink Sangria, 3) See a bullfight, 4) Eat Paella, 5) sit on a terraza no matter the season. So don't think you're not getting the authentic Spanish experience since you're seated with dozens of other tourists. You're there to watch flamenco and in a Madrid tablao is where you're going to get it - the ONLY place you're going to get it.
Don't think gypsies walk out their doors and walk into the Madrid flamenco tablao clubs, go up on stage, and perform impressively. Nope. It doesn't work that way. The best flamenco dancers/performers undertake years and years of instruction in some of the finest dance academies in Spain before they're ready to perform professionally - and before the tablaos will even consider hiring them.
So WHERE are you going to get "authentic" flamenco in Madrid? At any one of the Madrid flamenco tablaos. That's as authentic as it gets, really. But generally speaking, some of the most enjoyable shows are in the smaller, more intimate clubs. The downside of this is that IF they're small, they're not making much money. And IF they're not making much money, they can't afford the best dancers. So if they're not the best dancers, you're not likely seeing a high quality performances. I've seen performances in small rooms with 5 tables placed around a very small dance floor (in Granada) and enjoyed the performance. The dancer was young, probably still studying her art, and gave a good show to the few onlookers. This was enjoyable but even I could tell she had a ways to go with her technique.
History/Geography Lesson: Flamenco is historically a southern-Spain art form, in Analucía like Sevilla and Granada, but Madrid is a common place to find it too. In recent years, Madrid has been pushing hard to be better known for high quality flamenco and they're slowly achieving "market share" on that front. If you go much further north in Spain it's more odd, rare, strange to find flamenco at all. Many cities, however, will have a few flamenco tablaos to please the tourists. In Barcelona, I remember seeing lines outside of a Barcelona flamenco tablao and also cold-weather outdoor terraces packed with paella-eating, sangria-drinking, winter-coat-wearing tourists. Barcelona IS HISTORICALLY NOT the place for any of these things - except the winter coats in colder weather - so it looks out of place to my now more educated eyes.
Special Note: Depending on the flamenco tablao, oftentimes if you go to the 10pm show they will not kick you out at the start of the midnight show so you can double your pleasure for the price of one show.
So bite the traveler's bullet and go see a flamenco show in one of the well-known, tourist-laden tablaos and try to overlook the tourists. They're there for the same reason you're there; to enjoy a flamenco show in Madrid.
Saludos, MadridMan
WHAT?!?! Go figure!
Last night, "American-born Jon Robert Holden's jumper with 2.1 seconds left secured Russia their first-ever EuroBasket title with a thrilling 60-59 victory over reigning world champions and hosts Spain." - see EuroBasket2007 website HERE.
Let's get this straight. An AMERICAN on the 2007 Russian EuroBasket team WINS the championship game FOR RUSSIA!!? I can imagine a lot of United Statesens rolling their eyes (and their stomachs) with that notion - those who noticed, anyway. I can't find any mention of the game anywhere on USAToday. Maybe the story was gently misplaced. hehehe...
Spain loses to Russia in the 2007 EuroBasket final, 59-60. Catalán (and international) susperstar Pau Gasol literally had the game-winning ball in his hands with 2-seconds left on the clock. HE JUMPS! HE SHOOTS! It's In! It's Out! Time's up and Paul Gasol falls to the floor, no-doubt lamenting the, what, 7-missed free throws he had throughout the game. Visions of Shaquille O'Neal came to mind everytime I saw Gasol at the line. (Shaq is an equally horrible free-throw shooter)
This was not Spain's day. What a nail-biter in the last half of the game. The first half was dominated by Spain but only with very passive aggression, possibly due to Russia's inability to manage the ball. In the second half, Spain played with more nerves (not the good kind), made easy turnovers on lazy passes, MISSED free-throws, and a general appearance of anxiety and fear. The Russians played much better, much looser, much more relaxed and made nearly every free-throw. One person at the basketball party commented on game's MVP Andrei Kirilenko while at the free-throw line, "That guy must have ice in his veins. He NEVER misses!"
The second half was like that, nearly tied the entire time, but it appeared Spain was keeping their edge - until the end. More missed free-throws by Pau Gasol and more MADE free throws by Andrei Kirilenko essentially gave Russia the win over Spain - but it was the AMERICAN Jon Robert Holden's jumper which put them ahead - for good or for bad.
Spain won EuroBasket 2006. They were proud of that and they can be proud they reached the finals this year. Gotta work on those free-throws, though.
Sadly, MadridMan
Last night, "American-born Jon Robert Holden's jumper with 2.1 seconds left secured Russia their first-ever EuroBasket title with a thrilling 60-59 victory over reigning world champions and hosts Spain." - see EuroBasket2007 website HERE.
Let's get this straight. An AMERICAN on the 2007 Russian EuroBasket team WINS the championship game FOR RUSSIA!!? I can imagine a lot of United Statesens rolling their eyes (and their stomachs) with that notion - those who noticed, anyway. I can't find any mention of the game anywhere on USAToday. Maybe the story was gently misplaced. hehehe...
"There's an American playing in the Eurobasket tournament, and he's even wearing red, white and blue. But his passport is maroon with Cyrillic lettering, and he has spent more time recently in Red Square than he has in the land of red states and blue states. It's time for America to hear the story of J.R. Holden, a point guard who is bound to be branded a traitor in his homeland next summer if Russia qualifies for the Beijing Olympics." -Read article "Meet J.R. Holden, Russia's leading U.S. import" on the ESPN website HERE.
Spain loses to Russia in the 2007 EuroBasket final, 59-60. Catalán (and international) susperstar Pau Gasol literally had the game-winning ball in his hands with 2-seconds left on the clock. HE JUMPS! HE SHOOTS! It's In! It's Out! Time's up and Paul Gasol falls to the floor, no-doubt lamenting the, what, 7-missed free throws he had throughout the game. Visions of Shaquille O'Neal came to mind everytime I saw Gasol at the line. (Shaq is an equally horrible free-throw shooter)
"Gasol finished with 14 points, 14 rebounds, three assists and three blocked shots but the NBA superstar also missed five of eight foul shots in the fourth quarter (5-of-12 overall) and committed five turnovers."
This was not Spain's day. What a nail-biter in the last half of the game. The first half was dominated by Spain but only with very passive aggression, possibly due to Russia's inability to manage the ball. In the second half, Spain played with more nerves (not the good kind), made easy turnovers on lazy passes, MISSED free-throws, and a general appearance of anxiety and fear. The Russians played much better, much looser, much more relaxed and made nearly every free-throw. One person at the basketball party commented on game's MVP Andrei Kirilenko while at the free-throw line, "That guy must have ice in his veins. He NEVER misses!"
The second half was like that, nearly tied the entire time, but it appeared Spain was keeping their edge - until the end. More missed free-throws by Pau Gasol and more MADE free throws by Andrei Kirilenko essentially gave Russia the win over Spain - but it was the AMERICAN Jon Robert Holden's jumper which put them ahead - for good or for bad.
Spain won EuroBasket 2006. They were proud of that and they can be proud they reached the finals this year. Gotta work on those free-throws, though.
Sadly, MadridMan
Gypsy street musicians pass through my neighborhood from time to time - but less and less frequently. I always hear them playing their pasodobles before seeing them. They typically go from block corner to block corner trying to get the most "angle" for their performance.
Long ago, they usually consisted of a 3 or 4-person group; one trumpet, one tambourine, one accordion, and one woman who collects the money while spying half-hidden, entertained spectators in their windows above. The woman would always be keen of eye and with her body language would force you to pony-up a coin for having listened with lingering interest. Sometimes the group would have an animal who would do tricks while the music played.
Nowadays, the gypsy band is more like a 1-Man-Band, a single fellow who's wheeling around a kind of cart which holds a car battery, large speaker, and a synthesizer keyboard. The man hits a button which starts the rhythm and he then plays the melody by hand. Now THAT'S progress for you.
The last several days I've heard them in my neighborhood but they never came to my corner. Too bad. I had the camera and coin at hand, too! My afterthought was that the neighbors wouldn't be happy with my encouragement should they come because then the gypsy band would know they had an paying customer here and the "noise" might bother the neighbors.
Rarely on the streets will you see more than one or two people actually stopping to listen to the gypsy musicians. Most hurry along their way because they're truly in a hurry, are bored, bothered, don't want to pay, or don't trust the gypsies. Whatever the case, these street musicians don't make much money doing this, that's for sure.
These days, the street musicians you find in downtown Madrid are not gypsies anymore. They're most likely from Romania, Andean Latin American, or you might even catch the roving Mariachi band in the Puerta del Sol which makes frequent appearances and gains LARGE crowds. I often wonder about the latter band, wonder if the tourists think, "Ah yess... I'M IN SPAIN NOW!" - not realizing this is a MEXICAN band and has little or nothing to do with Spain itself. Along the same lines, how many times have I seen high school tour groups in Madrid (usually from the USA) and more than one of them is wearing a Mexican sombrero! Good Gawd.
Saludos, MadridMan
Long ago, they usually consisted of a 3 or 4-person group; one trumpet, one tambourine, one accordion, and one woman who collects the money while spying half-hidden, entertained spectators in their windows above. The woman would always be keen of eye and with her body language would force you to pony-up a coin for having listened with lingering interest. Sometimes the group would have an animal who would do tricks while the music played.
Nowadays, the gypsy band is more like a 1-Man-Band, a single fellow who's wheeling around a kind of cart which holds a car battery, large speaker, and a synthesizer keyboard. The man hits a button which starts the rhythm and he then plays the melody by hand. Now THAT'S progress for you.
The last several days I've heard them in my neighborhood but they never came to my corner. Too bad. I had the camera and coin at hand, too! My afterthought was that the neighbors wouldn't be happy with my encouragement should they come because then the gypsy band would know they had an paying customer here and the "noise" might bother the neighbors.
Rarely on the streets will you see more than one or two people actually stopping to listen to the gypsy musicians. Most hurry along their way because they're truly in a hurry, are bored, bothered, don't want to pay, or don't trust the gypsies. Whatever the case, these street musicians don't make much money doing this, that's for sure.
These days, the street musicians you find in downtown Madrid are not gypsies anymore. They're most likely from Romania, Andean Latin American, or you might even catch the roving Mariachi band in the Puerta del Sol which makes frequent appearances and gains LARGE crowds. I often wonder about the latter band, wonder if the tourists think, "Ah yess... I'M IN SPAIN NOW!" - not realizing this is a MEXICAN band and has little or nothing to do with Spain itself. Along the same lines, how many times have I seen high school tour groups in Madrid (usually from the USA) and more than one of them is wearing a Mexican sombrero! Good Gawd.
Saludos, MadridMan
I like to go to the movies. Usually I'll go to the Cine Ideal on the Plaza Jacinto Benavente en downtown Madrid to catch the latest, greatest Hollywood production shown in V.O. - "Versión Original". Or if it's a good Spanish movie with English subtitles, I'll go to one of the Renoir Princesa or Renoir Plaza de España cinemas on the Plaza de los Cubos near Plaza de España.
But last night I went to a new, more local theater to see a movie, a BRITISH movie, with a Spanish buddy whom I've known for years and years. I went with MUCH anticipation as I watched them build the entire commercial complex over the last year. Now it includes not only the cinema but also (my) gym, bowling alley (did that last night after the movie), an outside terrace bar, restaurants, and a Carlos Sainz Center where you drive miniature race cars around a circuit (10-minutes, 18€) - both inside and outside.
The new cinema, LUX Cinemas, promoting itself as the only cinema in Madrid where you can CHOOSE your language, was not ALL it "dubbed" itself to be. Their specialty is not only that they're the newest and most "LUXurious" (?) cinemas in Spain but also that they have the most modern audio system, inflated ticket prices include an obligatory snack-food choice which you can eat at your seat with armrest-hidden counters which flip-up and over ones lap. But the cool thing about this place was that you could actually CHOOSE your language with use of headphones.
We bought our tickets, took a few steps away from the window, then I went back and asked HOW I could "choose" my language. The ticket seller told me, "You can't choose a language with this movie." I said, "And in the future, how can I know what movies are available in different languages?" She said, "Well, you can't. You can only ask after arriving. We had ONE movie awhile back for which you could choose your language and we 'may' have more in the future." Hmmmmm... Sooooo... I was about to watch a BRITISH movie dubbed in Spanish. Okay. Well... fine. Let's see how this goes with my level of Spanish.
We walked into the VAST, empty cinema, pretty blue lighting system, seats sparkling new and fresh. The attendant took us directly to our ticket-numbered seats, smiled, nodded, and walked away. We were totally alone in our middle-center seats. A few minutes later another couple did come in and were seated behind us. We were 4 people for this 6pm movie on a Wednesday. Fine. I looked around for the audio jacks into which one could plug-in headphones. None. Hmmm... This was all a disappointment and an obvious mis-direction by the marketing department.
The lights dimmed. The coming attractions were shown. We started eating our popcorn. Then the British movie started, continued, and ended in just under two hours. To my amazement - I UNDERSTOOD ALMOST EVERYTHING!!!! WOWEE!! I'd have to say THIS movie was a kind of milestone for me. I always avoided Spanish movies or Spanish-dubbed movies for fear it would be a waste of time and money - and it usually is because I never understand enough of the move to make it enjoyable. But this movie was different. OR *I* was different. I'm not sure which it was. But I understood the, laughed at jokes, and even audibly "added" the next word in the actors' un-finished sentences.
I don't mean to pat myself on the back and shout, "LOOK HOW GREAT I AM!" because I'm certainly not. We whom learn other languages have a constant fear of saying the wrong thing or misunderstanding something told to us. We also have a great lack of confidence with ourselves with regards to the language with which we live but don't totally understand. But lately I've noticed, little by little, I'm understanding people more and more. Other recent examples include a visit to the doctor last week, talking to the Social Security agent today, and and old man at the bus stop today who was telling me about how he couldn't understand why his wife didn't want to buy the more economical month-long ABONO bus/metro tickets instead of the 10-trip tickets she does buy.
It would appear that learning a language occurs on a 3-part curve:
We hear people speaking to us in this foreign language and we finally understand nearly everything. BUT WHY CAN'T WE REPRODUCE WHAT WE'RE HEARING? That is to say, if I can understand the language why can't I SPEAK the language? That's more difficult. My speaking is now decent-to-good but I suppose that'll come more quickly in the latter half of the 2nd part of the aforementioned learning curve.
Someone once said, "The more I know the more I realize I don't know" or "The more I learn the stupider I feel."
Saludos, MadridMan
But last night I went to a new, more local theater to see a movie, a BRITISH movie, with a Spanish buddy whom I've known for years and years. I went with MUCH anticipation as I watched them build the entire commercial complex over the last year. Now it includes not only the cinema but also (my) gym, bowling alley (did that last night after the movie), an outside terrace bar, restaurants, and a Carlos Sainz Center where you drive miniature race cars around a circuit (10-minutes, 18€) - both inside and outside.
The new cinema, LUX Cinemas, promoting itself as the only cinema in Madrid where you can CHOOSE your language, was not ALL it "dubbed" itself to be. Their specialty is not only that they're the newest and most "LUXurious" (?) cinemas in Spain but also that they have the most modern audio system, inflated ticket prices include an obligatory snack-food choice which you can eat at your seat with armrest-hidden counters which flip-up and over ones lap. But the cool thing about this place was that you could actually CHOOSE your language with use of headphones.
We bought our tickets, took a few steps away from the window, then I went back and asked HOW I could "choose" my language. The ticket seller told me, "You can't choose a language with this movie." I said, "And in the future, how can I know what movies are available in different languages?" She said, "Well, you can't. You can only ask after arriving. We had ONE movie awhile back for which you could choose your language and we 'may' have more in the future." Hmmmmm... Sooooo... I was about to watch a BRITISH movie dubbed in Spanish. Okay. Well... fine. Let's see how this goes with my level of Spanish.
We walked into the VAST, empty cinema, pretty blue lighting system, seats sparkling new and fresh. The attendant took us directly to our ticket-numbered seats, smiled, nodded, and walked away. We were totally alone in our middle-center seats. A few minutes later another couple did come in and were seated behind us. We were 4 people for this 6pm movie on a Wednesday. Fine. I looked around for the audio jacks into which one could plug-in headphones. None. Hmmm... This was all a disappointment and an obvious mis-direction by the marketing department.
The lights dimmed. The coming attractions were shown. We started eating our popcorn. Then the British movie started, continued, and ended in just under two hours. To my amazement - I UNDERSTOOD ALMOST EVERYTHING!!!! WOWEE!! I'd have to say THIS movie was a kind of milestone for me. I always avoided Spanish movies or Spanish-dubbed movies for fear it would be a waste of time and money - and it usually is because I never understand enough of the move to make it enjoyable. But this movie was different. OR *I* was different. I'm not sure which it was. But I understood the, laughed at jokes, and even audibly "added" the next word in the actors' un-finished sentences.
I don't mean to pat myself on the back and shout, "LOOK HOW GREAT I AM!" because I'm certainly not. We whom learn other languages have a constant fear of saying the wrong thing or misunderstanding something told to us. We also have a great lack of confidence with ourselves with regards to the language with which we live but don't totally understand. But lately I've noticed, little by little, I'm understanding people more and more. Other recent examples include a visit to the doctor last week, talking to the Social Security agent today, and and old man at the bus stop today who was telling me about how he couldn't understand why his wife didn't want to buy the more economical month-long ABONO bus/metro tickets instead of the 10-trip tickets she does buy.
It would appear that learning a language occurs on a 3-part curve:
- The first 3rd is relatively flat yet very gently ascending. You become exposed to the basics of a language
- The second 3rd takes a sharp UP-turn. You know the
basics and these basics allow you to absorb the language's vocabulary
and real-life uses on a faster rate
- The last 3rd of the curve is much more level but still gently ascending. You know the basics, have a large mental vocabulary, but continue to learn the less commonly-used details of a language
We hear people speaking to us in this foreign language and we finally understand nearly everything. BUT WHY CAN'T WE REPRODUCE WHAT WE'RE HEARING? That is to say, if I can understand the language why can't I SPEAK the language? That's more difficult. My speaking is now decent-to-good but I suppose that'll come more quickly in the latter half of the 2nd part of the aforementioned learning curve.
Someone once said, "The more I know the more I realize I don't know" or "The more I learn the stupider I feel."
Saludos, MadridMan
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