About Spain: May 2009 Archives
Tomorrow is the first day of June - and I've already broken out the shorts. I usually put it off until June 1st but a few days ago started a heat-wave which I couldn't stand in jeans. Normally, my "what's socially acceptable" conscience gets the better of me and I literally sweat-it-out, but having already seen a number of Spaniards wearing shorts I thought my wearing them wouldn't bring too many strange looks - but a few older people did give me a glare or two.
"They say" yesterday it hit about 90ºF - and I believe it. Today, "they say", it should be about the same. It's definitely hotter this year at this date than in previous years. Although I remember some VERY HOT "Fiesta de San Isidro's" on May 15th, ones which warranted shorts but I wasn't brave enough to wear them.
Usually June is the first month when people are commonly seen wearing shorts. Of course, July, August, and the first half of September is a given. All bets are off at that time because it's so darn hot. And me, being a hot body, HATE these summer months, my only savior are the shorts and light cotton T-Shirts. And Thank God for His invention of linen pants! Man, those are almost better than wearing shorts - when you have to wear pants.
But in these summer months when it's HOT - and I mean HOT with a capital HOT - my superficial temperature rises as does the core, copious liters of sweat are "spent" daily while climbing my 5 flights of stairs to home, more is spent when carrying groceries, of course. It's odd ARRIVING at the gym already sweating. But it's true what they say, it really is a dry heat. Sounds funny, but it's true. Every night before going to bed I take a as-cold-as-it-gets shower and I'm usually good-to-go to sleep. There's no air conditioning in my bedroom but, in times of heat crisis, I can go to the other bedroom where there is.
Ventilation fans are essential for me. I love them. Many of the Spaniards I know hate them. They say it makes them stuffed-up, gives them colds, or just makes them feel bad. Can't imagine that. I usually have the fan going all night long. Spaniards I know generally feel the same about air conditioners. "They're just not natural". And I'm thinking, "You'd rather stew in a puddle of your own sweat while lying in bed??!" Seems the answer to that question is "yes".
More and more people buy air conditioners in Spain, disregarding the environment. Thankfully, more people are buying these humidifiers, machines which evaporates water and sends the hot air outdoors, thus lowering the inside temperature - something like that. They're odd-looking machines but are cheaper than air conditioners and are much better for the environment apart from the electricity they consume.
Bars and some smaller restaurants will often simply open their windows at night instead of turn on the A/C. Cinemas/Theaters are often under-air-conditioned from my sub-zero-public-space-American perspective. I often find I'm fanning myself with a folded piece of paper while watching the movie. Shopping malls are usually comfortable, but I rarely patronize them.
The terrazas (outdoor/patio bars and cafés) are teaming with people in warmer weather and you always see anxious onlookers waiting for an available table.
So whether or not I like the weather, the heats-a-coming to Madrid and to Spain.
"They say" yesterday it hit about 90ºF - and I believe it. Today, "they say", it should be about the same. It's definitely hotter this year at this date than in previous years. Although I remember some VERY HOT "Fiesta de San Isidro's" on May 15th, ones which warranted shorts but I wasn't brave enough to wear them.
Usually June is the first month when people are commonly seen wearing shorts. Of course, July, August, and the first half of September is a given. All bets are off at that time because it's so darn hot. And me, being a hot body, HATE these summer months, my only savior are the shorts and light cotton T-Shirts. And Thank God for His invention of linen pants! Man, those are almost better than wearing shorts - when you have to wear pants.
But in these summer months when it's HOT - and I mean HOT with a capital HOT - my superficial temperature rises as does the core, copious liters of sweat are "spent" daily while climbing my 5 flights of stairs to home, more is spent when carrying groceries, of course. It's odd ARRIVING at the gym already sweating. But it's true what they say, it really is a dry heat. Sounds funny, but it's true. Every night before going to bed I take a as-cold-as-it-gets shower and I'm usually good-to-go to sleep. There's no air conditioning in my bedroom but, in times of heat crisis, I can go to the other bedroom where there is.
Ventilation fans are essential for me. I love them. Many of the Spaniards I know hate them. They say it makes them stuffed-up, gives them colds, or just makes them feel bad. Can't imagine that. I usually have the fan going all night long. Spaniards I know generally feel the same about air conditioners. "They're just not natural". And I'm thinking, "You'd rather stew in a puddle of your own sweat while lying in bed??!" Seems the answer to that question is "yes".
More and more people buy air conditioners in Spain, disregarding the environment. Thankfully, more people are buying these humidifiers, machines which evaporates water and sends the hot air outdoors, thus lowering the inside temperature - something like that. They're odd-looking machines but are cheaper than air conditioners and are much better for the environment apart from the electricity they consume.
Bars and some smaller restaurants will often simply open their windows at night instead of turn on the A/C. Cinemas/Theaters are often under-air-conditioned from my sub-zero-public-space-American perspective. I often find I'm fanning myself with a folded piece of paper while watching the movie. Shopping malls are usually comfortable, but I rarely patronize them.
The terrazas (outdoor/patio bars and cafés) are teaming with people in warmer weather and you always see anxious onlookers waiting for an available table.
So whether or not I like the weather, the heats-a-coming to Madrid and to Spain.
Today is no ordinary day in Madrid, Spain. It's May 15, 2009, which is el Día de San Isidro el Labrador - Madrid's Patron Saint Day. So to honor his Saintness, I walked the half-kilometer to the Pradera de San Isidro, which is the park alongside La Ermita de San Isidro, or more simply, La Ermita del Santo.
This year 15 May fell fortunately on a Friday, forcing a 3-day holiday. The 15th of May is always a city holiday so banks, schools, and many establishments are closed in the city of Madrid.
I woke up pretty late, around 9:30am, showered, had a light breakfast, dressed, and ambled the half-kilometer to the Pradera de San Isidro, the park alongside the Ermita de San Isidro El Labrador - or more simply put, La Ermita del Santo, located just across the river from the Vicente Calderon football stadium and home to the Atletico de Madrid football team.
Thank goodness it was a cool-ish, sunny morning so my jeans and short-sleeved shirt and sandals getup wasn't too hot. I made my way uphill at about noon, passing the throngs of long-line-pedestrians waiting their turn to step up to the San Isidro fountain to sip from a glass or fill their jugs with the cool spring water - which apparently has "healing powers". The water's good, there's no doubt, but this year the line STARTED at the bridge which crosses the Rio Manzares and I wasn't about to spend the 1.5+ hours. I'd taken a sip last year and the healing powers seem to have kept me in good shape since then. Still, I was happy to reach the Pradera de San Isidro early-ish in the day before the great masses arrived.
As I made my way up the hill (it's ALLLLLL uphill, by the way, no flat parts whatsoever, except for a 30 meter stretch in front of which the mass is always held) I passed another, somewhat shorter line. This line was to ENTER the Ermita del Santo. I went in a couple years ago so, again, I wasn't going to the spend time as I didn't have all day to kill, just about an hour before meeting friends for a terraza lunch in the Casa de Campo next to the lake.
After passing all the "rosquilla" (las tontas y las listas, like
hard-fried doughnuts) stands on the left and the paramedics and
community group stands on the right, I had to wind around the backside
of the catholic mass which was being given to the seated masses in the
street. There must've been 10,000 people there, all seated and
listening intently, most of the men left their chulapo hats on for
protection from the sun, as did the women with their
scarved-and-carnationed heads. A number of women also fanned themselves even though it was not cold - but as their costumes may have been heavy and the sun direct on the backs of their heads, I couldn't blame them.
Passing the mass(es), I continued uphill
seeing a few State-Fair-like game stands, but then it was just one terraza
after another, covered and uncovered, bar after bar, all displaying
piles of these incredible Spanish dishes like croquetas, calamares,
salmonetes, fried potatoes, chopitos, and one humongous paella pan
after another, all with freshly garnished shellfish and lemon wedges.
There was even one Kebap stand - which didn't have anyone waiting at it
at the time of my passing. Since it was still relatively early, there
weren't many eaters but I could imagine how full those terrazas would
be the minute the mass was concluded at around 1pm or so.
On my way up the hill, and subsequently on my way back down the hill, I passed one cutie-pie girl after another, tiny things, maybe 5-8 years old, dressed up by their mothers as "chulapas" (traditional Madrid dress) with tiny red polka dots, oftentimes a white shawl around her shoulders, and always a white scarf covering her heads, topped off with a single red carnation. They were adorable, you just wanted to give them a big hug. The little boys, dressed alternatively as "chulapos", were cute too but not as cute with their black pants and black shoes, white button-down shirts, and a hounds tooth, button front vest, topped off with their gray hats.
Returning to the bottom portion of the road passing through the Pradera de San Isidro, I stopped off near the Ermita de San Isidro to buy some delicious Rosquillas: Las Tontas y Las Listas. Rosquillas are like a harder fried-dough version of a doughnut, topped with a variety of icings. They're great with coffee for breakfast or merienda. I only bought a dozen. But since rosquillas are only sold around the San Isidro holiday, by the time the last rosquilla is eaten is when we realize we have to wait until next year before we can buy more.
With the two-handle plastic bag containing rosquillas now wrapped
around my wrist, I turned around to see a group of 20 older Chulapos y
Chulapas dancing El Chotis, perfectly choreographed to recorded
music, and a large group surrounding them, everyone taking photos and
video - including me (see below!). These dancers belong to "Peñas"
or associations, each having its own banner/flag to represent them.
They practice every year to perform for the Fiestas de San Isidro and,
I suppose, whomever else will have them. They don't get paid, I'm sure,
but do it for the love of the dance, the love of their city and its
history. Sadly, however, the members of these associations are always
older. Rarely does a young person join the ranks as "it's for old
folks" and, I'm sure, "it isn't cool". So I have to wonder WHO will be
dancing El Chotis on San Isidro in 25 years time when ALL these people have passed away. "That's progress"??
So I'm officially done with the San Isidro Holiday although events take place throughout the weekend in various locations around Madrid, including the Pradera de San Isidro. Tonight and tomorrow night, from my window, I'll hear loud rock concerts until late. And then, on Sunday evening, marking the end of the San Isidro Holiday, there will be an incredible fireworks display in the Pradera.. And from my rooftop I'll have the best view in the area, being only a half a kilometer away. Can't wait for that.
This year 15 May fell fortunately on a Friday, forcing a 3-day holiday. The 15th of May is always a city holiday so banks, schools, and many establishments are closed in the city of Madrid.
I woke up pretty late, around 9:30am, showered, had a light breakfast, dressed, and ambled the half-kilometer to the Pradera de San Isidro, the park alongside the Ermita de San Isidro El Labrador - or more simply put, La Ermita del Santo, located just across the river from the Vicente Calderon football stadium and home to the Atletico de Madrid football team.
Thank goodness it was a cool-ish, sunny morning so my jeans and short-sleeved shirt and sandals getup wasn't too hot. I made my way uphill at about noon, passing the throngs of long-line-pedestrians waiting their turn to step up to the San Isidro fountain to sip from a glass or fill their jugs with the cool spring water - which apparently has "healing powers". The water's good, there's no doubt, but this year the line STARTED at the bridge which crosses the Rio Manzares and I wasn't about to spend the 1.5+ hours. I'd taken a sip last year and the healing powers seem to have kept me in good shape since then. Still, I was happy to reach the Pradera de San Isidro early-ish in the day before the great masses arrived.As I made my way up the hill (it's ALLLLLL uphill, by the way, no flat parts whatsoever, except for a 30 meter stretch in front of which the mass is always held) I passed another, somewhat shorter line. This line was to ENTER the Ermita del Santo. I went in a couple years ago so, again, I wasn't going to the spend time as I didn't have all day to kill, just about an hour before meeting friends for a terraza lunch in the Casa de Campo next to the lake.
After passing all the "rosquilla" (las tontas y las listas, like
hard-fried doughnuts) stands on the left and the paramedics and
community group stands on the right, I had to wind around the backside
of the catholic mass which was being given to the seated masses in the
street. There must've been 10,000 people there, all seated and
listening intently, most of the men left their chulapo hats on for
protection from the sun, as did the women with their
scarved-and-carnationed heads. A number of women also fanned themselves even though it was not cold - but as their costumes may have been heavy and the sun direct on the backs of their heads, I couldn't blame them. Passing the mass(es), I continued uphill
seeing a few State-Fair-like game stands, but then it was just one terraza
after another, covered and uncovered, bar after bar, all displaying
piles of these incredible Spanish dishes like croquetas, calamares,
salmonetes, fried potatoes, chopitos, and one humongous paella pan
after another, all with freshly garnished shellfish and lemon wedges.
There was even one Kebap stand - which didn't have anyone waiting at it
at the time of my passing. Since it was still relatively early, there
weren't many eaters but I could imagine how full those terrazas would
be the minute the mass was concluded at around 1pm or so.On my way up the hill, and subsequently on my way back down the hill, I passed one cutie-pie girl after another, tiny things, maybe 5-8 years old, dressed up by their mothers as "chulapas" (traditional Madrid dress) with tiny red polka dots, oftentimes a white shawl around her shoulders, and always a white scarf covering her heads, topped off with a single red carnation. They were adorable, you just wanted to give them a big hug. The little boys, dressed alternatively as "chulapos", were cute too but not as cute with their black pants and black shoes, white button-down shirts, and a hounds tooth, button front vest, topped off with their gray hats.
Returning to the bottom portion of the road passing through the Pradera de San Isidro, I stopped off near the Ermita de San Isidro to buy some delicious Rosquillas: Las Tontas y Las Listas. Rosquillas are like a harder fried-dough version of a doughnut, topped with a variety of icings. They're great with coffee for breakfast or merienda. I only bought a dozen. But since rosquillas are only sold around the San Isidro holiday, by the time the last rosquilla is eaten is when we realize we have to wait until next year before we can buy more.
With the two-handle plastic bag containing rosquillas now wrapped
around my wrist, I turned around to see a group of 20 older Chulapos y
Chulapas dancing El Chotis, perfectly choreographed to recorded
music, and a large group surrounding them, everyone taking photos and
video - including me (see below!). These dancers belong to "Peñas"
or associations, each having its own banner/flag to represent them.
They practice every year to perform for the Fiestas de San Isidro and,
I suppose, whomever else will have them. They don't get paid, I'm sure,
but do it for the love of the dance, the love of their city and its
history. Sadly, however, the members of these associations are always
older. Rarely does a young person join the ranks as "it's for old
folks" and, I'm sure, "it isn't cool". So I have to wonder WHO will be
dancing El Chotis on San Isidro in 25 years time when ALL these people have passed away. "That's progress"??MY VIDEO: "Chulapas" & "Chulapos" dancing "El Chotis", traditional Madrid dance
So I'm officially done with the San Isidro Holiday although events take place throughout the weekend in various locations around Madrid, including the Pradera de San Isidro. Tonight and tomorrow night, from my window, I'll hear loud rock concerts until late. And then, on Sunday evening, marking the end of the San Isidro Holiday, there will be an incredible fireworks display in the Pradera.. And from my rooftop I'll have the best view in the area, being only a half a kilometer away. Can't wait for that.
15 May in Madrid is Madrid's Patron Saint Day, la Fiesta de San Isidro. It's the day when Madrileños, both natives and transplants, show their pride and spirit for Madrid, Spain.
And they show their pride in many ways but the biggest way to celebrate is to organize a huge festival. During the weekend of San Isidro there is MUCH going on. Not only are there parades through downtown Madrid with music, dancing, older folks and children dressed as chulapos and chulapas (traditional Madrid costume), but there's also a huge gathering at the Pradera de San Isidro, around the Ermita de San Isidro, located just across the Manzanares river from the Vicente Calderon Atletico de Madrid football stadium. In the Pradera there are concerts, stands selling las rosquillas del santo (a kind of pastry/cookie), food stands and terrazas, traditional dance displays, more costumes, a Catholic mass, and free distribution of the clear, cool spring water from below the Ermita which, it is said, has healing powers.
For other, more bloody entertainment, there's the month long bullfight festival, the la Feria de San Isidro in the Corrida de Toros de Las Ventas Madrid. There, bullfights of varying levels take place nearly every day and tickets are at a premium, almost impossible to find as nearly every bullfight is totally sold out long before it takes place. And don't be fooled, this is a festival FOR SPANIARDS. Why? Mainly because it's a Madrid festival and many MANY Madrileños have "abonos" for the entire bullfight festival, renewing them year after year, sometimes for thousands of Euros - depending on the quality of the seat location. Also, attending a San Isidro bullfight is a kind of Status Symbol, to see and be seen as one of Madrid's elite class since tickets are expensive and difficult to get. They go very well dressed in their best suits and dresses, made up and hair slicked back.
Not to be left out - and not specifically related to San Isidro - is the month long Suma Flamenca flamenco festival in Madrid of which I'll attend my first flamenco performance on Monday and am looking forward to a dozen more flamenco performances during the festival.
After tomorrow, I'll post some photos - and maybe some video - of the things I saw while at the Feria de San Isidro.
Read the EsMadrid.com website page for a detailed agenda on San Isidro activities (only in Spanish, sorry!).
Read about the Ermita de San Isidro (only in Spanish, sorry!).
Read and see photos from the May 15, 2008 San Isidro Festival blog entry and also from the May 13, 2008 San Isidro Festival blog entry..
And they show their pride in many ways but the biggest way to celebrate is to organize a huge festival. During the weekend of San Isidro there is MUCH going on. Not only are there parades through downtown Madrid with music, dancing, older folks and children dressed as chulapos and chulapas (traditional Madrid costume), but there's also a huge gathering at the Pradera de San Isidro, around the Ermita de San Isidro, located just across the Manzanares river from the Vicente Calderon Atletico de Madrid football stadium. In the Pradera there are concerts, stands selling las rosquillas del santo (a kind of pastry/cookie), food stands and terrazas, traditional dance displays, more costumes, a Catholic mass, and free distribution of the clear, cool spring water from below the Ermita which, it is said, has healing powers.
For other, more bloody entertainment, there's the month long bullfight festival, the la Feria de San Isidro in the Corrida de Toros de Las Ventas Madrid. There, bullfights of varying levels take place nearly every day and tickets are at a premium, almost impossible to find as nearly every bullfight is totally sold out long before it takes place. And don't be fooled, this is a festival FOR SPANIARDS. Why? Mainly because it's a Madrid festival and many MANY Madrileños have "abonos" for the entire bullfight festival, renewing them year after year, sometimes for thousands of Euros - depending on the quality of the seat location. Also, attending a San Isidro bullfight is a kind of Status Symbol, to see and be seen as one of Madrid's elite class since tickets are expensive and difficult to get. They go very well dressed in their best suits and dresses, made up and hair slicked back.
Not to be left out - and not specifically related to San Isidro - is the month long Suma Flamenca flamenco festival in Madrid of which I'll attend my first flamenco performance on Monday and am looking forward to a dozen more flamenco performances during the festival.
After tomorrow, I'll post some photos - and maybe some video - of the things I saw while at the Feria de San Isidro.
Read the EsMadrid.com website page for a detailed agenda on San Isidro activities (only in Spanish, sorry!).
Read about the Ermita de San Isidro (only in Spanish, sorry!).
Read and see photos from the May 15, 2008 San Isidro Festival blog entry and also from the May 13, 2008 San Isidro Festival blog entry..
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