About Spain: August 2008 Archives
There's very little traffic. There are lots of parking spaces are available. Fewer people are evident in downtown Madrid - except for the tourists.
These all sound like wonderful assets for those Spaniards whom stay close to home in Madrid Spain and in the non-beachside cities around the country. We love the city tranquility!!
What we DON'T love - visiting tourists including - is the large percentages of bars, restaurants, and stores closed for the entire month of August. "It's only fair," we tell ourselves. "These hard working people deserve a vacation too."
It's totally understanding when we give it a second thought. But if we don't, we feel frustrated that we can't enjoy a porras for breakfast or cañas at our neighborhood bar. We also feel frustrated when we go to our favorite restaurants in downtown Madrid and find them closed - particularly when I'm taking visiting tourists!
The good thing - if it's all that good - is that thanks to a new City of Madrid regulation, shops in the Puerta del Sol zone can now stay open 7-days a week. These shops and bars in this zone really never do close except maybe the smallest, more specialized stores. This sounds good - and it is for shoppers - but for workers, most of them underpaid non-Spaniards, hardly get a break all summer long.
But outside of the Puerta del Sol zone the contrast is stark. Many many restaurants, even some of the popular ones with tourists, close for the entire month of August - or less often in July. So many times I've hosted visitors from the United States and am excited to take them to XYZ restaurant. But when we arrive, more than 50% of the time we find them closed and we set a new trail in search of some other OPEN, lesser known or unknown restaurant which MIGHT have good food or good service. And on top of all this IT'S HOT and no fun walking up and down streets in the midday sun searching for a restaurant, finally just picking one because it's open and serves food, just to escape the heat and sun. On the UP-side, I've discovered some very nice restaurants and bars I maybe wouldn't have otherwise found JUST because my favorite bars and restaurants were closed.
The museums are always open all summer as are the train and bus stations - which always do booming business with the influx of tourists from outside - and inside - Spain. The fast food shops stay open as do the big chain stores like El Corte Inglés and FNAC. So there are choices for dining and shopping but the selection is cut deeply in August.
Just the other day I was in downtown, in the PUERTA DEL SOL area, no less, and found my favorite ALL SPANISH, non-touristy bar closed for the month of August. I was very disappointed but certainly not surprised. The big more touristy bars like the Museo del Jamón are always open but those small, few remaining all-Spanish owned and operated bars will often close. THEY are maintaining the tradition of closing in August - while losing business to the competition. Hopefully they'll earning enough in the other 11 months of the year to make up for 1 months of losses.
"Los Chinos" or convenience and dry-goods stores usually operated by Chinese people are open nearly 365 days a year, open early and stay open late are systematically putting small Spanish family owned and operated stores out of business whom close for August, close at midday on Saturdays and closed Sundays and holidays. The competition of "Los Chinos" is fierce and has already changed the face of businesses in Madrid and throughout Spain, have changed opening hours, and ways of doing business. One local neighborhood Spanish store owner whom closed last year told me that she "had to carry everything in order to sell something" and it still wasn't enough. More and more closing bars and restaurants are being bought by Chinese people stay open more hours, days, and make money while their Spanish competition is closed.
But we really can't blame the hard-er working immigrants coming to Spain to make more money and to find a relatively better way of life for them. We really can't blame them. And we can't blame the Spaniards whom choose to close in August and for holidays in order to maintain the long-time Spanish way of life that everyone took for granted for decades. "WORK TO LIVE, NOT LIVE TO WORK" is the Spanish credo and one I love but is definitely foreign to me coming from the United States.
I'll someday write another blog entry about the lack of stores and restaurants open 24-hours - something I LOVE about the United States. That might very well be the end of traditional Spanish culture should it come here.
These all sound like wonderful assets for those Spaniards whom stay close to home in Madrid Spain and in the non-beachside cities around the country. We love the city tranquility!!
What we DON'T love - visiting tourists including - is the large percentages of bars, restaurants, and stores closed for the entire month of August. "It's only fair," we tell ourselves. "These hard working people deserve a vacation too."
It's totally understanding when we give it a second thought. But if we don't, we feel frustrated that we can't enjoy a porras for breakfast or cañas at our neighborhood bar. We also feel frustrated when we go to our favorite restaurants in downtown Madrid and find them closed - particularly when I'm taking visiting tourists!
The good thing - if it's all that good - is that thanks to a new City of Madrid regulation, shops in the Puerta del Sol zone can now stay open 7-days a week. These shops and bars in this zone really never do close except maybe the smallest, more specialized stores. This sounds good - and it is for shoppers - but for workers, most of them underpaid non-Spaniards, hardly get a break all summer long.
But outside of the Puerta del Sol zone the contrast is stark. Many many restaurants, even some of the popular ones with tourists, close for the entire month of August - or less often in July. So many times I've hosted visitors from the United States and am excited to take them to XYZ restaurant. But when we arrive, more than 50% of the time we find them closed and we set a new trail in search of some other OPEN, lesser known or unknown restaurant which MIGHT have good food or good service. And on top of all this IT'S HOT and no fun walking up and down streets in the midday sun searching for a restaurant, finally just picking one because it's open and serves food, just to escape the heat and sun. On the UP-side, I've discovered some very nice restaurants and bars I maybe wouldn't have otherwise found JUST because my favorite bars and restaurants were closed.
The museums are always open all summer as are the train and bus stations - which always do booming business with the influx of tourists from outside - and inside - Spain. The fast food shops stay open as do the big chain stores like El Corte Inglés and FNAC. So there are choices for dining and shopping but the selection is cut deeply in August.
Just the other day I was in downtown, in the PUERTA DEL SOL area, no less, and found my favorite ALL SPANISH, non-touristy bar closed for the month of August. I was very disappointed but certainly not surprised. The big more touristy bars like the Museo del Jamón are always open but those small, few remaining all-Spanish owned and operated bars will often close. THEY are maintaining the tradition of closing in August - while losing business to the competition. Hopefully they'll earning enough in the other 11 months of the year to make up for 1 months of losses.
"Los Chinos" or convenience and dry-goods stores usually operated by Chinese people are open nearly 365 days a year, open early and stay open late are systematically putting small Spanish family owned and operated stores out of business whom close for August, close at midday on Saturdays and closed Sundays and holidays. The competition of "Los Chinos" is fierce and has already changed the face of businesses in Madrid and throughout Spain, have changed opening hours, and ways of doing business. One local neighborhood Spanish store owner whom closed last year told me that she "had to carry everything in order to sell something" and it still wasn't enough. More and more closing bars and restaurants are being bought by Chinese people stay open more hours, days, and make money while their Spanish competition is closed.
But we really can't blame the hard-er working immigrants coming to Spain to make more money and to find a relatively better way of life for them. We really can't blame them. And we can't blame the Spaniards whom choose to close in August and for holidays in order to maintain the long-time Spanish way of life that everyone took for granted for decades. "WORK TO LIVE, NOT LIVE TO WORK" is the Spanish credo and one I love but is definitely foreign to me coming from the United States.
I'll someday write another blog entry about the lack of stores and restaurants open 24-hours - something I LOVE about the United States. That might very well be the end of traditional Spanish culture should it come here.
This blog entry could've been titled "Some people like to complain about everything" or even "Some people just don't know how good they've got it."
I'm referring to, of course, Madrid's public transportation system. I LOVE IT! And it's cheap, too! With a 10-Trip MetroBus ticket for 6.70 Euros - that's just 0.67 Eurocents each trip - you can travel throughout Madrid City. Make a lot of metro connections and it costs you the same, just 0.67 Eurocents.
I have some Spanish friends whom love to complain about taking buses or the metro. "It takes too long for the bus/metro to come!" they'd say sometimes. I say, "Yeah, but once it comes you get there a lot faster than in a car/taxi and you don't have to look for - and pay for - parking upon arriving! Some people are just impatient.
My only complaint IS just that. Once at the bus stop or metro station, you might have to wait 5 minutes, 10 minutes, even 15 minutes (for buses). Metros come more frequently - depending on the hour of the day. During peak times, metros come along no later than every 5 minutes. Buses are mostly at the mercy of street traffic.
Fortunately, I have a bus stop JUST outside my door which takes me directly to OPERA. From there I walk everywhere in downtown Madrid. Othertimes I'll take the metro along the Number 6 GREY circular line and can go to Príncipe Pío, Moncloa, Arguelles without chaging trains. I love it. The metro station from where I live is a bit of a walk, taking about 15 minutes. This isn't bad at all but if you're carrying a new television or something heavy then it can seem far.
During the PEAK PEAK travel times at 8:30am - 10:00am the metro cars can be absolutely PACKED. Sometimes you can't even get in because the cars look like cans of sardines. Impossible. Wait for the next one - only to find it's the same as the previous one. Luckily, I NEVER travel at this hour.
Buses are a little better at peak times with regards to fullness. But at those peak times there's more traffic so it can be much slower too.
While on the metros when the cars are FULL of people I can't imagine how "Juan Público" can possible keep his sanity while in full suit and tie, jammed together with all the others, insufficient or no air conditioning, and HOW can he keep from sweating. I swear. Some Spaniards don't sweat no matter the temperature! Makes me crazy.
I almost prefer the buses because there are more stops along the way, more chances to get closer to your destination. The buses themselves are all modern, most with air conditioning, comfortable, clean, and large. It's amazing to me how they can meander through the narrow two-way traffic between the rows of double parked cars on both sides. Just amazing. The guys (and one or two women) are excellent drivers, oftentimes very "cool" looking with their designer sunglasses, usually young, and always friendly when you say your "Buenos días" upon getting on. And these drivers MAKE CHANGE WHILE THEY'RE DRIVING! It's amazing to me.
The new, modern metro cars are also great. They're always air conditioned (and you feel it when it's not FULL of people), clean, you don't have homeless people sleeping on them. Oftentimes you will get the "street performer" with their speaker-on-wheels with MP3 background music while they play a pan flute, accordion, guitar, or simply sing. Yesterday I was on the metro and an older woman, presumably Romanian, had her Peavey speaker duct taped to the luggage stroller, an MP3 player taped to the top of that, and she sang the most beautiful songs - IN ROMANIAN. I couldn't understand a word she sang but had a beautiful voice. It's rare to see older people performing on these metro cars. Usually they're quite young. You NEVER see performers on the buses as the drivers wouldn't allow it. I don't usually hand over spare change for the performers because I don't feel comfortable opening my shoulder bag and fishing out my wallet to expose what I'm carrying. It's silly, I'm sure, but that's how it is. I don't carry change in my pants/shorts pockets.
If I'm meeting friends on the Plaza de Chueca or going to Las Ventas I'll take the bus to Opera and then the direct train to these other destinations. Usually while waiting on the bus I'm worried I'll arrive late. Always the punctual American. But more often than not I arrive with plenty of time mainly due to the speediness of the metro. There's something about exiting the stairs of Plaza de Chueca and encountering a SEA of terraza tables and umbrellas and chatty people. It's SO welcoming!
Taxis, well, aren't considered PUBLIC transportation so I won't talk about them here. They're usually a last effort to arrive somewhere ontime - OR if you're carrying a load of something - OR a group of people going to a specific address. I like taxis, they're great and easy to find - and cheap too - but when I'm not in a hurry I always take the bus IF I understand their route (which can be challenging) or easy-to-understand metro to get where I'm going.
I'm referring to, of course, Madrid's public transportation system. I LOVE IT! And it's cheap, too! With a 10-Trip MetroBus ticket for 6.70 Euros - that's just 0.67 Eurocents each trip - you can travel throughout Madrid City. Make a lot of metro connections and it costs you the same, just 0.67 Eurocents.
I have some Spanish friends whom love to complain about taking buses or the metro. "It takes too long for the bus/metro to come!" they'd say sometimes. I say, "Yeah, but once it comes you get there a lot faster than in a car/taxi and you don't have to look for - and pay for - parking upon arriving! Some people are just impatient.
My only complaint IS just that. Once at the bus stop or metro station, you might have to wait 5 minutes, 10 minutes, even 15 minutes (for buses). Metros come more frequently - depending on the hour of the day. During peak times, metros come along no later than every 5 minutes. Buses are mostly at the mercy of street traffic.
Fortunately, I have a bus stop JUST outside my door which takes me directly to OPERA. From there I walk everywhere in downtown Madrid. Othertimes I'll take the metro along the Number 6 GREY circular line and can go to Príncipe Pío, Moncloa, Arguelles without chaging trains. I love it. The metro station from where I live is a bit of a walk, taking about 15 minutes. This isn't bad at all but if you're carrying a new television or something heavy then it can seem far.
During the PEAK PEAK travel times at 8:30am - 10:00am the metro cars can be absolutely PACKED. Sometimes you can't even get in because the cars look like cans of sardines. Impossible. Wait for the next one - only to find it's the same as the previous one. Luckily, I NEVER travel at this hour.
Buses are a little better at peak times with regards to fullness. But at those peak times there's more traffic so it can be much slower too.
While on the metros when the cars are FULL of people I can't imagine how "Juan Público" can possible keep his sanity while in full suit and tie, jammed together with all the others, insufficient or no air conditioning, and HOW can he keep from sweating. I swear. Some Spaniards don't sweat no matter the temperature! Makes me crazy.
I almost prefer the buses because there are more stops along the way, more chances to get closer to your destination. The buses themselves are all modern, most with air conditioning, comfortable, clean, and large. It's amazing to me how they can meander through the narrow two-way traffic between the rows of double parked cars on both sides. Just amazing. The guys (and one or two women) are excellent drivers, oftentimes very "cool" looking with their designer sunglasses, usually young, and always friendly when you say your "Buenos días" upon getting on. And these drivers MAKE CHANGE WHILE THEY'RE DRIVING! It's amazing to me.
The new, modern metro cars are also great. They're always air conditioned (and you feel it when it's not FULL of people), clean, you don't have homeless people sleeping on them. Oftentimes you will get the "street performer" with their speaker-on-wheels with MP3 background music while they play a pan flute, accordion, guitar, or simply sing. Yesterday I was on the metro and an older woman, presumably Romanian, had her Peavey speaker duct taped to the luggage stroller, an MP3 player taped to the top of that, and she sang the most beautiful songs - IN ROMANIAN. I couldn't understand a word she sang but had a beautiful voice. It's rare to see older people performing on these metro cars. Usually they're quite young. You NEVER see performers on the buses as the drivers wouldn't allow it. I don't usually hand over spare change for the performers because I don't feel comfortable opening my shoulder bag and fishing out my wallet to expose what I'm carrying. It's silly, I'm sure, but that's how it is. I don't carry change in my pants/shorts pockets.
If I'm meeting friends on the Plaza de Chueca or going to Las Ventas I'll take the bus to Opera and then the direct train to these other destinations. Usually while waiting on the bus I'm worried I'll arrive late. Always the punctual American. But more often than not I arrive with plenty of time mainly due to the speediness of the metro. There's something about exiting the stairs of Plaza de Chueca and encountering a SEA of terraza tables and umbrellas and chatty people. It's SO welcoming!
Taxis, well, aren't considered PUBLIC transportation so I won't talk about them here. They're usually a last effort to arrive somewhere ontime - OR if you're carrying a load of something - OR a group of people going to a specific address. I like taxis, they're great and easy to find - and cheap too - but when I'm not in a hurry I always take the bus IF I understand their route (which can be challenging) or easy-to-understand metro to get where I'm going.
Irish Pubs in Madrid are not unique. One might initially think so but these "novelty pubs" are throughout the city and, in fact, throughout the world! I'm not even sure what all the mystique is about.
Is it the large wooden bar and rustic interior? Is it the old fashioned pub signs in English? Is it the Guinness Beer? Is it because of the movie scenes portraying such old fashioned, small town pubs and everyone knows your name? Or Is it the sensation that you get that you can be drunk as a skunk and, there, it's socially acceptable?
For whatever reason, I avoid these places like the plague. (not that one can generally AVOID a plague - as it usually finds YOU!) Can a drinking establishment BE any LESS Spanish? Probably not.
I understand Spaniards wanting a change of pace by going NOT to a Spanish bar but rather to an Irish Pub. It's something different. This I understand completely and it makes sense to me. For the same reasons I like(d) to go to Mexican restaurants in the United States.
But there's something about me, a United Statesen, walking into an Irish Pub here in Madrid, Spain. Frankly, the notion - and the experience - makes my skin crawl. Maybe it's because I simply LOVE Spanish bars and I LOVE being with other Spaniards!? This is probably the most likely reason. But I'd also venture to presume it's also because I love Spain so much that I can't imagine tainting "The Spanish Experience" - as internationally homogenized as it has become in the last 10 years - by going to a place where there will undoubtedly be dozens of Brits, Americans, and Australians swilling down pints and pints of beer and all speaking to each other in English - with the token Spaniard thrown in for color.
Some of my British and United Statesen friends always tell me, "Well sure. But it's nice for a change to just speak in English and relax your brain for a couple hours." I can - and can't - agree with this. Unless you're a United Statesen or British person working in a Spanish company and speaking Spanish nearly 24/7 you're more likely like me where you're still thinking in English, writing in English, and visiting English websites the majority of your waking time and you actually jump at the chance to speak Spanish, be with Spaniards, and see things... errr... SPANISH!!
An English friend of mine dragged me into an Irish pub a couple of times - and I went nearly kicking and screaming. I sat there on the stool, drank my Harp Beer, and listened to all the English language conversations going on about this, that, and - of course - the English soccer/rugby game being televised at any given moment. YECH! Blah! My stomach felt sick. "Is this REALLY Spain?" I asked myself. "Is THIS why I moved to Madrid?"
MANY Americans, English, and Australians visit (Madrid) Spain every year and MANY of them visit Irish Pubs while here. What's up with that?? Didn't they travel X,000 miles to have something of a Spanish Experience?? Aren't they paying good, hard-earned money to eat Spanish food, drink Spanish drinks, and mingle with Spaniards? Then why in the world would they spend X hours in an Irish Pub? I guess for the same reasons they sometimes eat at McDonald's or seek the nearest Taco Bell (which thankfully don't exist here). It's a taste of home. And some travelers have difficulty straying far from their homelands and homeland comforts and rituals.
I must admit, however, that I'm rather looking forward to trying the advertised "English Breakfast" by one or two of the Irish Pubs. An "English Breakfast", as I understand it, is very much like "A Big American Breakfast" in that it contains eggs, sausage or ham, maybe potatoes, and other things you might find on the menu at Denny's - minus the pancakes and waffles, that is. From time to time here in Spain I miss "A Big Breakfast" in the land of toast-and-coffee breakfasts. Sooooo.. having JUST admitted that I would go to an Irish Pub for their English Breakfast, HOW is that different from a Brit going to an Irish Pub for a pint of Guinness? Probably no difference whatsoever and I'm simply a hypocrite and am unable to diagnose my own psychosis.
But really, if you're visiting Spain try to stick to the SPANISH food items, Spanish drinks, Spanish places, and BE with the Spanish people. It will make your stay much more memorable and definitely much more..... SPANISH! That's what you're paying for, afterall. You can surely go to an Irish Pub where you live! My decision to avoid non-Spanish places is a personal one. How will I assimilate properly if I don't?
Is it the large wooden bar and rustic interior? Is it the old fashioned pub signs in English? Is it the Guinness Beer? Is it because of the movie scenes portraying such old fashioned, small town pubs and everyone knows your name? Or Is it the sensation that you get that you can be drunk as a skunk and, there, it's socially acceptable?
For whatever reason, I avoid these places like the plague. (not that one can generally AVOID a plague - as it usually finds YOU!) Can a drinking establishment BE any LESS Spanish? Probably not.
I understand Spaniards wanting a change of pace by going NOT to a Spanish bar but rather to an Irish Pub. It's something different. This I understand completely and it makes sense to me. For the same reasons I like(d) to go to Mexican restaurants in the United States.
But there's something about me, a United Statesen, walking into an Irish Pub here in Madrid, Spain. Frankly, the notion - and the experience - makes my skin crawl. Maybe it's because I simply LOVE Spanish bars and I LOVE being with other Spaniards!? This is probably the most likely reason. But I'd also venture to presume it's also because I love Spain so much that I can't imagine tainting "The Spanish Experience" - as internationally homogenized as it has become in the last 10 years - by going to a place where there will undoubtedly be dozens of Brits, Americans, and Australians swilling down pints and pints of beer and all speaking to each other in English - with the token Spaniard thrown in for color.
Some of my British and United Statesen friends always tell me, "Well sure. But it's nice for a change to just speak in English and relax your brain for a couple hours." I can - and can't - agree with this. Unless you're a United Statesen or British person working in a Spanish company and speaking Spanish nearly 24/7 you're more likely like me where you're still thinking in English, writing in English, and visiting English websites the majority of your waking time and you actually jump at the chance to speak Spanish, be with Spaniards, and see things... errr... SPANISH!!
An English friend of mine dragged me into an Irish pub a couple of times - and I went nearly kicking and screaming. I sat there on the stool, drank my Harp Beer, and listened to all the English language conversations going on about this, that, and - of course - the English soccer/rugby game being televised at any given moment. YECH! Blah! My stomach felt sick. "Is this REALLY Spain?" I asked myself. "Is THIS why I moved to Madrid?"
MANY Americans, English, and Australians visit (Madrid) Spain every year and MANY of them visit Irish Pubs while here. What's up with that?? Didn't they travel X,000 miles to have something of a Spanish Experience?? Aren't they paying good, hard-earned money to eat Spanish food, drink Spanish drinks, and mingle with Spaniards? Then why in the world would they spend X hours in an Irish Pub? I guess for the same reasons they sometimes eat at McDonald's or seek the nearest Taco Bell (which thankfully don't exist here). It's a taste of home. And some travelers have difficulty straying far from their homelands and homeland comforts and rituals.
I must admit, however, that I'm rather looking forward to trying the advertised "English Breakfast" by one or two of the Irish Pubs. An "English Breakfast", as I understand it, is very much like "A Big American Breakfast" in that it contains eggs, sausage or ham, maybe potatoes, and other things you might find on the menu at Denny's - minus the pancakes and waffles, that is. From time to time here in Spain I miss "A Big Breakfast" in the land of toast-and-coffee breakfasts. Sooooo.. having JUST admitted that I would go to an Irish Pub for their English Breakfast, HOW is that different from a Brit going to an Irish Pub for a pint of Guinness? Probably no difference whatsoever and I'm simply a hypocrite and am unable to diagnose my own psychosis.
But really, if you're visiting Spain try to stick to the SPANISH food items, Spanish drinks, Spanish places, and BE with the Spanish people. It will make your stay much more memorable and definitely much more..... SPANISH! That's what you're paying for, afterall. You can surely go to an Irish Pub where you live! My decision to avoid non-Spanish places is a personal one. How will I assimilate properly if I don't?
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