Recently in About Spain Category
What a perfect day it was for today's Madrid's Patron Saint, San Isidro el Labrador.
The weather could not have been more perfect. Many people seemed to stay away in the morning because of the cool temperatures and mostly cloudy skies, no doubt fearing rain - but it never happened.
I was watching the festivities on TeleMadrid this morning and they noted the low turn-out so I took my opportunity to go early, arriving at the line at about 11:45am to drink water "with curing powers" at the fountain alongside the Ermita del Santo - La Ermita de San Isidro. The line went fast, about 25 minutes (which is REALLY fast, usually taking an hour), and I happily took a glass (yes, a glass made of glass) filled with water from the fountain behind the stand. I had to wonder how many people had drunk from the same glass from which I was now drinking. Hmmm... But fine. I was there, I had no refillable bottle as others had brought, so I took my chances and hoped the water's "healing powers" would cure me of any bacteria which might pass over my lips from the person(s) before me whom had drunk from the same glass.
Going by myself I really enjoyed myself a lot, I could take my time, being alone I didn't have any problems "slicing" through the crowds. As you know when there are two or three of you it's much more stressful, all the while avoiding oncoming persons whom aren't watching where they're going. But in being alone I could enjoy all the cute kids in their chulapo and chulapa costumes, so very very cute.
I made one long walk up the main street and salivated over all the wonderfully delicious looking foods, chopitos, fried sardines, patatas bravas, croquetas, pulpo a la Gallega, enormous paellas, roasted chickens, and bar after bar after bar. Man, if it wasn't so early (1pm by this time) and if I didn't already have lunch plans I would have happily sat down for a feast.
But before leaving, I stopped at one of the dozens of stands selling PILES upon PILES of "Rosquillas" which are deep fried doughnut-like rings and topped with different sweet frostings. I bought 4 dozen total of different varieties and shared them later with friends - but brought half of them home for "meriendas" with coffee.
After a home-cooked meal at some friends' house and after a good sitting-up nap on the sofa afterwards, we all made it back to the Berbena de San Isidro, luckily just a short walk away as all this is close to where I live. We sat on the grassy hill in the Pradera de San Isidro and watched staged Chotis dances to music. We walked through the now hordes of people (and I mean hordes!) of people. Or rather, we stood and waited for the mass to move so that we could move with it. Finally we did and took a back-track with fewer people, away from the stands and the performances and walked more easily through the Pradera de San Isidro park and I arrived home by sunset.
I had half thought to go back tonight and see how the promenade looks with all the festival lights, imagining there would probably be far fewer people and to have a snack but I'm SO NOT HUNGRY that I can't imagine returning. It's tempting though. The berbena will be going on most of the night with lots of concerts - which I'll surely hear as I'm lying in bed. But I think I've taken quite a nice taste of the Fiesta de San Isidro this year. GREAT weather, fewer people (at least in the morning), and a good experience through and through. Can't wait 'til next year.
The weather could not have been more perfect. Many people seemed to stay away in the morning because of the cool temperatures and mostly cloudy skies, no doubt fearing rain - but it never happened.
I was watching the festivities on TeleMadrid this morning and they noted the low turn-out so I took my opportunity to go early, arriving at the line at about 11:45am to drink water "with curing powers" at the fountain alongside the Ermita del Santo - La Ermita de San Isidro. The line went fast, about 25 minutes (which is REALLY fast, usually taking an hour), and I happily took a glass (yes, a glass made of glass) filled with water from the fountain behind the stand. I had to wonder how many people had drunk from the same glass from which I was now drinking. Hmmm... But fine. I was there, I had no refillable bottle as others had brought, so I took my chances and hoped the water's "healing powers" would cure me of any bacteria which might pass over my lips from the person(s) before me whom had drunk from the same glass.
Going by myself I really enjoyed myself a lot, I could take my time, being alone I didn't have any problems "slicing" through the crowds. As you know when there are two or three of you it's much more stressful, all the while avoiding oncoming persons whom aren't watching where they're going. But in being alone I could enjoy all the cute kids in their chulapo and chulapa costumes, so very very cute.
I made one long walk up the main street and salivated over all the wonderfully delicious looking foods, chopitos, fried sardines, patatas bravas, croquetas, pulpo a la Gallega, enormous paellas, roasted chickens, and bar after bar after bar. Man, if it wasn't so early (1pm by this time) and if I didn't already have lunch plans I would have happily sat down for a feast.
But before leaving, I stopped at one of the dozens of stands selling PILES upon PILES of "Rosquillas" which are deep fried doughnut-like rings and topped with different sweet frostings. I bought 4 dozen total of different varieties and shared them later with friends - but brought half of them home for "meriendas" with coffee.After a home-cooked meal at some friends' house and after a good sitting-up nap on the sofa afterwards, we all made it back to the Berbena de San Isidro, luckily just a short walk away as all this is close to where I live. We sat on the grassy hill in the Pradera de San Isidro and watched staged Chotis dances to music. We walked through the now hordes of people (and I mean hordes!) of people. Or rather, we stood and waited for the mass to move so that we could move with it. Finally we did and took a back-track with fewer people, away from the stands and the performances and walked more easily through the Pradera de San Isidro park and I arrived home by sunset.
I had half thought to go back tonight and see how the promenade looks with all the festival lights, imagining there would probably be far fewer people and to have a snack but I'm SO NOT HUNGRY that I can't imagine returning. It's tempting though. The berbena will be going on most of the night with lots of concerts - which I'll surely hear as I'm lying in bed. But I think I've taken quite a nice taste of the Fiesta de San Isidro this year. GREAT weather, fewer people (at least in the morning), and a good experience through and through. Can't wait 'til next year.
2008's San Isidro is upon us here in Madrid, Spain. The official day for San Isidro, Madrid's patron saint, is 15 May but San Isidro Events are planned for an entire month. Thursday, May 15th, is THE day.
The "Pradera de San Isidro", which are the gardens or park grounds around the Ermita de San Isidro (the San Isidro Chapel - not to be confused with the church of the same name in downtown Madrid), is fortunately located very near me and is the location where Goya created many of his famous paintings of the city of Madrid more than 200 years ago. The Pradera de San Isidro is already lined with its stands and kiosks, the amusement park rides have been assembled, and the musical stage has been constructed. The only thing which remains are the people. The area will open Wednesday night at 8pm.
Going to the "Romería" (saint's day party of the local village) in the Pradera de San Isidro is a love-hate situation. I LOVE going to see all the children and older folks dressed in traditional costume as "Chulapos" and "Chulapas" and watching the older folks dancing the "Chotis" - the typical 19th century dance danced mainly in the Lavapies and El Rastro neighborhoods at that time. But I HATE the dense concentration of people. At the peak hour it's nearly impossible to walk anywhere, everyone being front-to-back, shoulder-to-shoulder and no one moving but everyone with a destination in mind. Total gridlock. And if it's hot - as it often is at this time of year - even worse.
But the "Romería" has more things to offer which I do love. One can drink cool, fresh spring water from the fountain at the chapel, the Ermita de San Isidro. The fountains water supposedly contains magical properties which cure sickness. Be sure to get there early because the lines are long-long-long, particularly on hot days. Drinking the water is free but a donation is accepted. There's also a nice rose garden next to the chapel.What would a Romería be without ROSQUILLAS!?!? Rosquillas are a snack food similar to doughnuts but exist in two varieties: "tontas" and "listas" and are most typically found during San Isidro. Rosquillas are sold everywhere and are relatively cheap. Most people buy them by the bag and take them home to eat through the weekend. They're a bit dry but very tasty with coffee or milk. Covered terrace restaurants line the main street and serve absolutely everything from chopitos, paella, tapas, and full meals. Wine and beer and widely available too.
There is a mass during the day and concerts at night - which I can easily hear from my house - but I've never been to the Pradera de San Isidro at night. I understand it's an electric environment. On the very last evening they have a firework display which I love to watch from the building's rooftop.OTHER CELEBRATION LOCATIONS:
There is also a "Berbena" in "Las Vistillas" - the gardens near the San Francisco Church ("Iglesia de San Francisco El Grande") with views of the Almudena Cathedral. The area is quite nice and large and is traditionally the place to watch chotis dance performances on stage. I've attended this twice in the last two years but will not go back this year. Lately, while the dances take place, the thousands of teenagers surrounding the stage and in the gardens pay no attention, more interested in their Botellón drunkfest than the cultural performances surrounding them. The teens are densely packed side-by-side, their plastic bags and empty beer, wine, and calimocho-mix containers littering the ground everywhere. It's not a nice seen, unfortunately, This area has been lost or overtaken by underage drinking.
The annual monthlong bullfight festival, "La Fería de San Isidro", takes place in Madrid's bullring, Corrida de Toros de Las Ventas. It started this year on the 8th of May and lasts until about the first week of June. The near-daily bullfights start at 7pm, last about 2 hours, and are televised on cable (satellite) television but not on public television. Getting tickets to bullfights of San Isidro is nearly impossible. "Bonos" or annual passes to the feria are closely guarded by people who renew them year after year for a high price. Few non-bono tickets are available and those few which are snapped up quickly in the first days they go on sale just before the feria starts.
San Isidro is also a time to enjoy Madrid's most famous food dishes including Cocido Madrileño, Callos Madrileños, and Rabo de Toro (stewed bull's tail). Sidra (lightly fermented cider) is also a popular drink during these days.
Since San Isidro falls this year on a Thursday, nearly everything closes except for many bars and terraces. Friday is a normal workday but some people will choose to stretch the holiday into a "puente" or bridge the Thursday into a 4-day weekend. The weather forecast for Thursday is partly cloudy and 73ºF/23ºC with rain the day before and the day after San Isidro. Looks like the weather gods have smiled upon us this year.
The entire San Isidro Program (in Spanish only): http://www.esmadrid.com/sanisidro/inicio.html
Semana Santa, or Holy Week, is in near-full-throttle position here in Spain. While today's only Friday evening, one notices immediately fewer cars in the streets and the more traffic on Spain's highways. Madrid, on the other hand, will be comparatively tranquil with little traffic and lots of available parking spaces as seemingly half the population leaves town.SOME PEOPLE like students, teachers, and some businesses, take the entire week off while many others only close only on "Jueves Santo" or Holy Thursday and through Easter weekend.
Other people will go to the family home in the "pueblo" for rest and relaxation while many others go down south to Sevilla, Granada, Córdoba, Cádiz, or the beaches of Málaga.
Still others will take advantage of the free time to fly to France or Germany or even to the United States where the exchange rate is VERY favorable for those carrying Euros.
VERY unfortunately, the weather forecasts for Holy Week in Spain are not very positive, expecting cloudy skies and some rainy conditions throughout Spain accompanied by cooler temperatures. None of this is surprising since Easter came SUPER early this year.
Many people will be enjoying the religious processions throughout Spain too, including in Madrid. I hope I'll have the opportunity to see some as I'm staying here this year although I'd love to get away for at least a few days. Oh well. I guess I can wait until the following week when I expect to spend 6 days in Granada. Hope the weather's good there. We'll see.
Links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Week_procession
It really does seem like only yesterday. But in fact, 4 years have passed since the March 11, 2004 Train Bombings in Madrid by terrorists. It was a day when it seemed that time stopped altogether. Nothing else in the world existed.In Columbus, Ohio, the night before the train bombings, I set my computer to record Madrid morning's radio news which I did every night. The next morning, upon awaking, I'd burn the saved MP3 file to a CD-RW and then take it to work and listen there.
But this particular morning was different - and would never be forgotten. I turned on my computer as usual, eating my cereal while going to the Spanish news websites. And that's when I saw it.
I'd recently been able to subscribe to TVEinternational through my cable service and so I turned on the TV immediately - at about 5am or 11am local Spain time. To my horror I saw the the horrible aftermath just 2 hours after the bombings took place. Atocha Train Station was chaos as were the streets surrounding it.
The Death Toll kept going up and up with every minute and my mind went immediately to friends I knew in Madrid whom took the trains through Atocha on their way to work. First thing I did was call off of work so I could better follow the situation and see if they were okay. Luckily, everyone one I knew was.
People from all over the world sent ME dozens of emails with hopes that my friends in Madrid were okay. I was doing the same, sending dozens of emails to people I knew there.
The next day I went to work and everyone there was asking about my friends in Madrid. While working, I followed the Spanish news online while also listening to the recording I'd made the night before the bombings. It was spooky. The recorded news program to which I was listening stopped what they were discussing and gave us the brief news, "An explosion of some kind has taken place at the Atocha Train Station," but nothing more was known until shortly thereafter. I still have that CD recording and listen to it from time to time.
Roughly 10 days after the 11-M train bombings I flew to Madrid for my already scheduled Semana Santa vacation there. Some people at work thought I was crazy, as if I was flying into a war zone or something. My family was concerned too. I wasn't worried in the least. In fact, worry wasn't an emotion I felt since knowing my friends were okay. There was something which was drawing me to Madrid. I NEEDED to be there. I NEEDED to be with the people I cared about. I NEEDED to see all this for myself.Madrid and Spain continues in a state of recovery. People never forget the event nor those whom were lost to this pointless terrorist attack on 11 March 2004. In general, Spanish people are VERY VERY resilient. They won't forget what happened but they're also not afraid to walk the streets or use the trains. For that I give them a lot of credit.
Links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11_March_2004_Madrid_train_bombings
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aftermath_of_the_11_March_2004_Madrid_train_bombings
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casualties_of_the_11_March_2004_Madrid_bombings
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atocha_Train_Station_Memorial
With the elections nearly over and 95% of the votes already counted, both the conservative party Partido Popular ("PP") and the socialist party Partido Socialista Obrero Español ("PSOE") have acknowledged the victory of PSOE's José Luis Rodriquez Zapatero to be Spain's president for another 4-years. Mariano Rajoy, PP's party elect, has already called Zapatero congratulating him on his victory.Today, Sunday 9 March 2008 was my FIRST Presidential election experience here in Spain. And what an experience it was. I cannot vote as I don't (yet) have citizenship but I went with some friends whom did vote first thing this morning.
First of all, I love the Spanish voting system whereas the elections ALWAYS take place on a Sunday so more people are available and free to vote. NOT like when elections take place on a weekday/workday and a real effort has to be made, ask for work time off to vote, etcetera. I also like the "rule" which says no party, no candidate, no media outlet can make new claims or additional campaigning on the Saturday before the elections as it's a day of reflection. I think this is due to a 1984 law - which I think is great.
Here, I watched BOTH of the 2 debates between Partido Popular's Mariano Rajoy and PSOE's José Luis Zapatero and found it very interesting. Luckily, finally, my Spanish comprehension has reached a point that I understood nearly everything said in the debates. And also, both candidates spoke very slowly, making it easier for me.
I was also impressed that there were no less than 10 PARTIES with candidates running for President of Spain. Isn't that incredible? Can anyone imagine an election in the United States with TEN PARTIES represented? That's just incredible. And they all get time on television. Ten Parties! Wow. And new parties are popping-up and others leaving every elections.
As is customary, as the voting started off, both parties claimed a pre-victory. But as the exit poll numbers rolled in things began to change as it seemed likely that PSOE would win the election. Both parties' headquarters are located in downtown Madrid and both had large groups of supporters outside their front doors and also where all the speeches were made - OUTSIDE.
As time drew to the end, all parties made their speeches congratulating PSOE's victory, EXCEPT for the Izquierda Unida ("United Left") party - the 3rd most popular party in Spain - which critisized the two-party election system, not giving equal time or equal opportunity to their party. This guy was really angry but took full responsibility for the outcome while promising to continue fighting for the rights of women, immigrants, and those whom can't fight for themselves.
"IU" will likely finish with 3% of the total votes while PSOE will get about 44% and PP will get about 40%. I'll update this figure when the final votes are counted.
People are passionate about the elections and with good reason. Spain is a country which LOVES to demonstrate. PSOE typically demonstrates in the Puerta del Sol while PP always demonstrates in the Plaza de Colón below the enormous Spanish flag. I won't try to describe both parties here because there are always those whom would read too much into my words and start labeling my claims. Suffice it to say that PP is the right-of-center nationalist conservative party and PSOE is the slightly-left-of-center liberal party.
The campaign certainly wasn't "clean". What campaign is? For everything one party claims the other party criticizes. For every benefit one party claims the other party claims as a disaster. I guess this is the way of politics and I don't like that.
My day began today with the elections. LOTS of people in the streets on this Sunday morning. Shortly after that I went to the Teatro Real - NOW TWICE IN ONE WEEK - this time for a classical music concert with great seats. After that, I had Cocido Madrileño with friends in their home. After that I had a nice, long, cleansing walk home - much needed after that wonderfully heavy lunch - and then started in with the elections details on television. Again I ask, "Am I Spanish YET!?" hehehe... I guess not - but I'm working on it!
So congratulations to José Luis Rodriquez Zapatero on his win to continue his presidency 4-years more. PP will have another shot at that time - and will no doubt make a good campaign for it.
As in most of the rest of "The Modern World", Spain recognizes working women in all the media outlets - including THIS one. Today is it, 8 March 2008.
http://www.internationalwomensday.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Women's_Day
Even I've noticed an obvious shift in sex of traditionally male positions. Most notably, to me, is the number of female doctors - at least in Madrid - in the hospitals and local doctors offices. The doctor I had when I first moved to Madrid 2 years ago was a man. Shortly after "joining", that man left and was replaced by a 50-something woman. We get along very well, as well as with the man before her.
But in waiting for my turn to see my doctor I can't help but notice that ALL the doctors at my doctor's office (called a "Centro de Salud" or "Ambulatorio") - except for one man - are women! One time I took a friend to a "Centro de Salud" in downtown Madrid after a non-life-threatening accident and he was attended by not one but two female doctors. I've even spent an unfortunate amount of time visiting people at hospitals here in Madrid and many of the doctors there are women too. And surprisingly, a high percentage of the nurses there are MEN! Wow! In many many pharmacies you'll also find female pharmacists. Very common.
In addition to the public health-care sector, I've noticed more and more public bus drivers are women! This, to me, is very very surprising. The high majority of drivers are still men but I hadn't seen a female bus driver in Madrid until about 9 months ago. Same goes with taxi drivers - which remains mostly male. I've seen maybe 4 women taxi drivers in Madrid in the last 2 years. This number may not change too much as driving a taxi is much more potentially dangerous than driving a bus what with the potential for robbery of a taxi driver, women being more of a potential target.
Also in the street cleaning sector. One might consider street cleaning to be WOMEN'S WORK. But until about 9 months ago I never saw a woman cleaning the streets with the broom and the cart. They were ALWAYS men. But not now.
Police: Wow. What a shift. I've seen so many female police persons on the streets. The seeming majority of the women working as police persons are giving out parking tickets and working traffic maintenance but I've also seen a number of policewomen carrying pistols for hard-core law enforcement.
But while there are more and more women working, their wages still are not equal to those those of men - which is still the case all over the world. But I things are improving - albeit slowly. The thousands of responsibilities at home still mainly go to the woman - whether they're working outside of the house or not.
From the pages of Qué! newspaper (translated by yours truly):
It's important for women to have all the same opportunities as men. I just wish Spain would do away with their sexual and age discrimination. It's incredible to me to see job postings in newspapers offering XYZ JOB but they're ONLY considering women. For example, "Seeking woman, age 19-26 years old." Isn't this shocking??? There don't seem to be an age or sex discrimination laws on the Spanish books. Imagine a perfectly qualified male, 59 years old, applies for this same job and he's told that no, he won't be hired because A) he's NOT a woman and B) he's too old. WHY would they only consider hiring 21-29 year old WOMEN for that job? To me it's obvious. The company offering this job wants to pay a LOWER SALARY. And why? Because they think a woman's work is less valuable than the work of a man. And why the age restriction? Same reason. They think the value of a young person's work is lower than a mature person's work. Besides, right?, (tongue in cheek coming here....) a young woman doesn't have a family to support, right? Why should we, "The Company", pay her any more?? Shocking. Really shocking.
The Spanish working world really leaves a lot to be desired in MANY respects, not only the topic of the disastrously low salaries in general, but all to make the rich owners richer. That's what it's all about, right? Maximizing profits at the expense of everything else. These same rich owners are SO HAPPY for the influx of illegal immigrants willing to work for nearly nothing and with no benefits. This too makes the rich owners richer. Same with the working woman. If you can pay a woman, a young woman, or a young immigrant woman less - that means more money in THEIR (the owners) pockets. HUMPH! A hot topic for me. A VERY hot topic.
I support equality. Which is why the observance of today's day, "The International Working Women's Day", is so important. And in the vein of pure equality, I'm waiting for the invention of "The International Working Man's Day". Now THAT would be equality to the last point. But... we all know that's never going to happen. Is THAT equality??
A proverb in English goes, "What's good for the goose is good for the gander." Which means "What is good for a man is equally good for a woman; or, what a man can have or do, so can a woman have or do. This comes from an earlier proverb, "What's sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander."
http://www.internationalwomensday.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Women's_Day
Even I've noticed an obvious shift in sex of traditionally male positions. Most notably, to me, is the number of female doctors - at least in Madrid - in the hospitals and local doctors offices. The doctor I had when I first moved to Madrid 2 years ago was a man. Shortly after "joining", that man left and was replaced by a 50-something woman. We get along very well, as well as with the man before her.
But in waiting for my turn to see my doctor I can't help but notice that ALL the doctors at my doctor's office (called a "Centro de Salud" or "Ambulatorio") - except for one man - are women! One time I took a friend to a "Centro de Salud" in downtown Madrid after a non-life-threatening accident and he was attended by not one but two female doctors. I've even spent an unfortunate amount of time visiting people at hospitals here in Madrid and many of the doctors there are women too. And surprisingly, a high percentage of the nurses there are MEN! Wow! In many many pharmacies you'll also find female pharmacists. Very common.
In addition to the public health-care sector, I've noticed more and more public bus drivers are women! This, to me, is very very surprising. The high majority of drivers are still men but I hadn't seen a female bus driver in Madrid until about 9 months ago. Same goes with taxi drivers - which remains mostly male. I've seen maybe 4 women taxi drivers in Madrid in the last 2 years. This number may not change too much as driving a taxi is much more potentially dangerous than driving a bus what with the potential for robbery of a taxi driver, women being more of a potential target.
Also in the street cleaning sector. One might consider street cleaning to be WOMEN'S WORK. But until about 9 months ago I never saw a woman cleaning the streets with the broom and the cart. They were ALWAYS men. But not now.
Police: Wow. What a shift. I've seen so many female police persons on the streets. The seeming majority of the women working as police persons are giving out parking tickets and working traffic maintenance but I've also seen a number of policewomen carrying pistols for hard-core law enforcement.
But while there are more and more women working, their wages still are not equal to those those of men - which is still the case all over the world. But I things are improving - albeit slowly. The thousands of responsibilities at home still mainly go to the woman - whether they're working outside of the house or not.
From the pages of Qué! newspaper (translated by yours truly):
"IQUALITY IS A LONG WAY OFF
Just 'To Lend a Hand' at home doesn't help anyone
In the last year women have occupied two of three new jobs created in Spain. The news would be satisfying if the salaries would be equal to those of men in the same jobs. But the worst thing is that this step forward in the working world hasn't meant the same thing for the domestic jobs in the home. There are people whom continue thinking it's sufficient "to lend a hand", but there's an abyss of sharing tasks at home."
It's important for women to have all the same opportunities as men. I just wish Spain would do away with their sexual and age discrimination. It's incredible to me to see job postings in newspapers offering XYZ JOB but they're ONLY considering women. For example, "Seeking woman, age 19-26 years old." Isn't this shocking??? There don't seem to be an age or sex discrimination laws on the Spanish books. Imagine a perfectly qualified male, 59 years old, applies for this same job and he's told that no, he won't be hired because A) he's NOT a woman and B) he's too old. WHY would they only consider hiring 21-29 year old WOMEN for that job? To me it's obvious. The company offering this job wants to pay a LOWER SALARY. And why? Because they think a woman's work is less valuable than the work of a man. And why the age restriction? Same reason. They think the value of a young person's work is lower than a mature person's work. Besides, right?, (tongue in cheek coming here....) a young woman doesn't have a family to support, right? Why should we, "The Company", pay her any more?? Shocking. Really shocking.
The Spanish working world really leaves a lot to be desired in MANY respects, not only the topic of the disastrously low salaries in general, but all to make the rich owners richer. That's what it's all about, right? Maximizing profits at the expense of everything else. These same rich owners are SO HAPPY for the influx of illegal immigrants willing to work for nearly nothing and with no benefits. This too makes the rich owners richer. Same with the working woman. If you can pay a woman, a young woman, or a young immigrant woman less - that means more money in THEIR (the owners) pockets. HUMPH! A hot topic for me. A VERY hot topic.
I support equality. Which is why the observance of today's day, "The International Working Women's Day", is so important. And in the vein of pure equality, I'm waiting for the invention of "The International Working Man's Day". Now THAT would be equality to the last point. But... we all know that's never going to happen. Is THAT equality??
A proverb in English goes, "What's good for the goose is good for the gander." Which means "What is good for a man is equally good for a woman; or, what a man can have or do, so can a woman have or do. This comes from an earlier proverb, "What's sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander."
POSTER AT LEFT: Taken from Wikipedia's page on The International Women's Day.
The 1932 Soviet poster dedicated to the 8th of March holiday. The text reads: "8th of March is the day of the rebellion of the working women against the kitchen slavery" and "Down with the oppression and narrow-mindedness of the household work!". Originally in the USSR the holiday had a clear political character, emphasizing the role of the Soviet state in liberation of women from the second-class citizens' position...
The 1932 Soviet poster dedicated to the 8th of March holiday. The text reads: "8th of March is the day of the rebellion of the working women against the kitchen slavery" and "Down with the oppression and narrow-mindedness of the household work!". Originally in the USSR the holiday had a clear political character, emphasizing the role of the Soviet state in liberation of women from the second-class citizens' position...
Not to be confused by the popular book by the same name, "The New Spaniards" was the headline for an article in yesterday's free daily newspaper ADN: Madrid edition. I was reading it on the bus while heading downtown. It's also relative to a previous blog entry, "The "Spanish Image" for Travelers".
The official title of the ADN article is/was:
Los Nuevos Españoles
22.309 Extranjeros [in Madrid] se Nacionalizaron en 2007
("22,309 Foreigners [in Madrid] became Spanish Citizens in 2007")
Unfortunately, I can't find a link to this article on their website but here are some of the points which I found interesting:
I have to wonder if the above numbers are ACTUAL totals or just REGISTERED totals. I would imagine many many foreigners are "off the books", illegal, and uncounted. It seems to me the count is based on a census so these would be REGISTERED numbers of foreigners.
To acquire Spanish Citizenship, the general rule is that one must first have Spanish Residency for 10 years before applying. HOWEVER, different categories of people carry different lengths of time before one can apply.
Will I choose to take Spanish Citizenship some day? I don't know. While the United States does allow duel citizenship for its citizens, Spain does not. "Spain says" that if one receives Spanish Citizenship the recipient must then denounce his other citizenship - but they don't walk you to your embassy to follow through with the process. That's your responsibility.
The official title of the ADN article is/was:
Los Nuevos Españoles
22.309 Extranjeros [in Madrid] se Nacionalizaron en 2007
("22,309 Foreigners [in Madrid] became Spanish Citizens in 2007")
Unfortunately, I can't find a link to this article on their website but here are some of the points which I found interesting:
- In 2007 41% more foreigners in Madrid became Spanish citizens than in 2006
- Carabanchel, a Madrid district, had the highest percentage of immigrants with 23%, 59,000 total
- Barajas, also a Madrid district, had the lowest percentage of immigrants with 16%, 5,400 total
- MY district of Latina had second highest percentage of immigrants with 18%, 49,000 total
- According to a census, today there are 548, 456 foreigners in Madrid - 2,348 less than in 2007
I have to wonder if the above numbers are ACTUAL totals or just REGISTERED totals. I would imagine many many foreigners are "off the books", illegal, and uncounted. It seems to me the count is based on a census so these would be REGISTERED numbers of foreigners.
To acquire Spanish Citizenship, the general rule is that one must first have Spanish Residency for 10 years before applying. HOWEVER, different categories of people carry different lengths of time before one can apply.
- citizens of Latin American countries, Andorra, Philippines must have Spanish residency for 2 years
- refugees must wait 5 years before applying for Spanish citizenship
- a one year wait is for those born in Spain, non-Spanish spouses of Spaniards, widows/widowers of Spaniards, and those born outside of Spain by a Spanish father, mother, or grandparent
Will I choose to take Spanish Citizenship some day? I don't know. While the United States does allow duel citizenship for its citizens, Spain does not. "Spain says" that if one receives Spanish Citizenship the recipient must then denounce his other citizenship - but they don't walk you to your embassy to follow through with the process. That's your responsibility.
I JUST got back from grocery shopping ("la compra") in the neighborhood. I also went to the snack shop (they ONLY sell snacks) for "supplies" for Sunday's NFL Football playoffs. And since it was 6pm I also decided to stop for MERIENDA.
I had "café con leche" - coffee with milk - and toast with olive oil and salt. My favorite. Total tab: 1.80€. It's so incredibly cheap that today I asked the bar guy if it was the correct price. I said something like, "That's for BOTH the coffee and the toast with olive oil?" and he said, "Yes. Why? What's wrong?" and I said, "Nothing. I thought it was more," not wanting to admit that I thought the price was cheap. I would've been happy paying twice that amount!
What is Merienda? According to the Wikipidia page on Merienda:
Children nearly ALWAYS have merienda upon leaving school at 5pm or thereabouts. You see them being led by their parents with one hand while with their other hand they're munching on a small sandwich or drinking from small plastic bottle. Crummy faces they have or liquids dripping off their chins while on their way home.
Older people also have merienda in the late afternoon. You see groups of (mainly) older women in their 70s and 80s walking very (VERY!) slowly down the sidewalks, SIDE-BY-SIDE 5 abreast, on their way to their favorite bar. For these people bars with tables, space to move around, and an accessible toilet is a must.
It's the merienda time when these older Spaniards get together to socialize, have an excuse stretch their legs, and to have a small snack - FOR CHEAP. Sometimes I find myself at a bar at 6pm and I've always seen these older people sitting there with their coffee and churros/porras or toasted bread with olive oil - "pan tostada con aceite". They're absolutely in NO hurry - NOR should they be in a hurry. Sometimes they're sitting there NOT talking to one another, sometimes they knit, sometimes they watch TV. They're there for 1 to 2 hours. Total bar tab: 2 Euros per person. Wow. These bars are cleaning up! hehehe...
It's a charming scene seeing these older women all together, chit-chatting, this possibly being their only opportunity to see their friends or to leave the house each day. These are all retired women, housewives, or widows. Men less commonly go out together for merienda - or possibly because men tend to die younger or are less mobile at this age and are less likely to leave the house.
What you DON'T usually see in bars having merienda is/are...... ummm.. PEOPLE LIKE ME! hehehe.. By that I mean that A) it's less common to see foreigners having merienda. And B) people between the ages of 20 and 70 are too busy at this hour to stop for a casual coffee and snack. They're working or at home watching TV.
I really think, or fear, the merienda custom will no longer exist after this older generation passes on. I can't imagine today's busy 20, 30, 40, 50, and even 60-somethings will be going out with their friends for coffee at the local bar once they reach retirement age. I hope I'm wrong. But particularly with today's 20 and 30-somethings whom are breaking all the rules and customs, those whom are truly transforming the "typical Spanish life" what with all their distractions of television, computer/internet, and videogames to keeping them indoors at home. Imagine how the world will be in 30 or 40 years when these people are "pensionistas"!
Let's enjoy the custom of Merienda while we have it - at least those whom CAN enjoy it. (like me!!)
I had "café con leche" - coffee with milk - and toast with olive oil and salt. My favorite. Total tab: 1.80€. It's so incredibly cheap that today I asked the bar guy if it was the correct price. I said something like, "That's for BOTH the coffee and the toast with olive oil?" and he said, "Yes. Why? What's wrong?" and I said, "Nothing. I thought it was more," not wanting to admit that I thought the price was cheap. I would've been happy paying twice that amount!
What is Merienda? According to the Wikipidia page on Merienda:
Spanish: "La merienda es la comida que se toma antes de la cena, a media tarde. Suele tomarse una pieza de pan con embutido, pastas o bollería, acompañado de alguna bebida, fría o caliente, como café, batido, chocolate caliente o leche, entre otros."Merienda is definitely an acquired custom. But if someone is having lunch at 2pm and dinner at 10pm - like ANY good Spaniard would - a light mid-afternoon snack is a necessity at around 6pm.
English: "Merienda is the mid-afternoon meal taken before dinner. Some eat a peice of bread with hams, sweets or rolls, and often acompanied with a drink, hot or cold, like coffee, milkshake, hot chocolate or milk, among many."
Children nearly ALWAYS have merienda upon leaving school at 5pm or thereabouts. You see them being led by their parents with one hand while with their other hand they're munching on a small sandwich or drinking from small plastic bottle. Crummy faces they have or liquids dripping off their chins while on their way home.
Older people also have merienda in the late afternoon. You see groups of (mainly) older women in their 70s and 80s walking very (VERY!) slowly down the sidewalks, SIDE-BY-SIDE 5 abreast, on their way to their favorite bar. For these people bars with tables, space to move around, and an accessible toilet is a must.
It's the merienda time when these older Spaniards get together to socialize, have an excuse stretch their legs, and to have a small snack - FOR CHEAP. Sometimes I find myself at a bar at 6pm and I've always seen these older people sitting there with their coffee and churros/porras or toasted bread with olive oil - "pan tostada con aceite". They're absolutely in NO hurry - NOR should they be in a hurry. Sometimes they're sitting there NOT talking to one another, sometimes they knit, sometimes they watch TV. They're there for 1 to 2 hours. Total bar tab: 2 Euros per person. Wow. These bars are cleaning up! hehehe...
It's a charming scene seeing these older women all together, chit-chatting, this possibly being their only opportunity to see their friends or to leave the house each day. These are all retired women, housewives, or widows. Men less commonly go out together for merienda - or possibly because men tend to die younger or are less mobile at this age and are less likely to leave the house.
What you DON'T usually see in bars having merienda is/are...... ummm.. PEOPLE LIKE ME! hehehe.. By that I mean that A) it's less common to see foreigners having merienda. And B) people between the ages of 20 and 70 are too busy at this hour to stop for a casual coffee and snack. They're working or at home watching TV.
I really think, or fear, the merienda custom will no longer exist after this older generation passes on. I can't imagine today's busy 20, 30, 40, 50, and even 60-somethings will be going out with their friends for coffee at the local bar once they reach retirement age. I hope I'm wrong. But particularly with today's 20 and 30-somethings whom are breaking all the rules and customs, those whom are truly transforming the "typical Spanish life" what with all their distractions of television, computer/internet, and videogames to keeping them indoors at home. Imagine how the world will be in 30 or 40 years when these people are "pensionistas"!
Let's enjoy the custom of Merienda while we have it - at least those whom CAN enjoy it. (like me!!)
Europeans in general can be partially credited for the "invention" of the balcony. Most of these appear in HOT countries like Spain, Italy, Greece, and even southern France.
To me it's amazing to see thousands of balconies around Madrid city and rarely ever see anyone ON them! Why not? I imagine it's a privacy issue. What a waste of good space and freedom. I guess a balcony is ONE thing but a terraza is quite another. On a terraza you can have your meals, sit and talk with friends or family, or just take a nap in the sun. On a balcony you can do little more than lean out over the street and pedestrians below.
Now it's wintertime in Spain and the temperatures are cool to cold. In Madrid, now after midnight, it's downright cold. BUT I LOVE IT because I'm "a hot body". I'm dreading the arrival of late spring and summer. Ugh.
My balcony and my kitchen are my two handy escapes from the (gas) heat of the house or just to take in some fresh air. The kitchen is handier because in there there are no radiators, no heaters. Only the gas appliance itself is present and the kitchen window must be kept ajar to allow the light gas fumes to escape.
I always keep the kitchen window open but the kitchen door always closed. It must be an odd sight to my neighbors across the way - all of whom have their windows closed - to look here and see this kitchen window open at all hours of the day and night.
There's nothing more refreshing for me to enter the kitchen, all fresh and cool, and to lean out the window at night to marvel at the strikingly clear Madrid night skies. It seems I can see every star. And yet I can also clearly see fine details of the few passing clouds. I love it. I lean out the window, take a deep breath of that cool air, look up to the sky and thank those lucky stars for bringing me here.
The balcony in my house is enclosed with a sliding glass window from waist height to the ceiling. There I go sometimes in the summer to take in the sunset or to also fill my lungs with fresh, cool air during these winter days. Again, it must be an odd sight to anyone whom MIGHT be able to see me 5 flight above street level, leaning out of his balcony on a at-freezing-temperature night.
The kitchen window gets the wonderful sunrise sun, filling the room with that brilliant glow as I make my breakfast. Sometimes it's so inviting that I actually sit and eat my breakfast there - although it's almost too small to move around. But with the window open and the sun shining it makes it all worth it.
The living room gets all the afternoon and evening sun - or at least it did until they constructed a 5 story building in my line-of-sight to the sunset across the street. That's quite sad for me. Still, the sun is wonderful until late in the afternoon.
I can't get over how wonderfully clear the skies are here in Madrid. Low humidity, I suppose. Kind of reminds me of those clear and rare cloudless winter nights in rural north central Ohio - except for the 2-feet of snow on the ground - when I'd go to the backyard and stare up to the mesh of stars hovering over our house in the country. The Milky Way seemed like a blanket I could almost reach up and touch. Just spectacular. So quiet, cool and fresh. So clean. That's when you really feel in touch with your planet.
So often when considering the possibility of buying a (larger) house here in Madrid I think I'd REQUIRE a place with a balcony, a terrace, or at least a great view of the skyline or the mountains. Those flats come at a premium price and are hard to find. I hope I can get it someday. Having the simple ability of going "outside" from your own flat - without having to go down to the street level - really does a lot for one's peace of mind. For now, I'm so happy to have that possibility here at my home.
To me it's amazing to see thousands of balconies around Madrid city and rarely ever see anyone ON them! Why not? I imagine it's a privacy issue. What a waste of good space and freedom. I guess a balcony is ONE thing but a terraza is quite another. On a terraza you can have your meals, sit and talk with friends or family, or just take a nap in the sun. On a balcony you can do little more than lean out over the street and pedestrians below.
Now it's wintertime in Spain and the temperatures are cool to cold. In Madrid, now after midnight, it's downright cold. BUT I LOVE IT because I'm "a hot body". I'm dreading the arrival of late spring and summer. Ugh.
My balcony and my kitchen are my two handy escapes from the (gas) heat of the house or just to take in some fresh air. The kitchen is handier because in there there are no radiators, no heaters. Only the gas appliance itself is present and the kitchen window must be kept ajar to allow the light gas fumes to escape.
I always keep the kitchen window open but the kitchen door always closed. It must be an odd sight to my neighbors across the way - all of whom have their windows closed - to look here and see this kitchen window open at all hours of the day and night.
There's nothing more refreshing for me to enter the kitchen, all fresh and cool, and to lean out the window at night to marvel at the strikingly clear Madrid night skies. It seems I can see every star. And yet I can also clearly see fine details of the few passing clouds. I love it. I lean out the window, take a deep breath of that cool air, look up to the sky and thank those lucky stars for bringing me here.
The balcony in my house is enclosed with a sliding glass window from waist height to the ceiling. There I go sometimes in the summer to take in the sunset or to also fill my lungs with fresh, cool air during these winter days. Again, it must be an odd sight to anyone whom MIGHT be able to see me 5 flight above street level, leaning out of his balcony on a at-freezing-temperature night.
The kitchen window gets the wonderful sunrise sun, filling the room with that brilliant glow as I make my breakfast. Sometimes it's so inviting that I actually sit and eat my breakfast there - although it's almost too small to move around. But with the window open and the sun shining it makes it all worth it.
The living room gets all the afternoon and evening sun - or at least it did until they constructed a 5 story building in my line-of-sight to the sunset across the street. That's quite sad for me. Still, the sun is wonderful until late in the afternoon.
I can't get over how wonderfully clear the skies are here in Madrid. Low humidity, I suppose. Kind of reminds me of those clear and rare cloudless winter nights in rural north central Ohio - except for the 2-feet of snow on the ground - when I'd go to the backyard and stare up to the mesh of stars hovering over our house in the country. The Milky Way seemed like a blanket I could almost reach up and touch. Just spectacular. So quiet, cool and fresh. So clean. That's when you really feel in touch with your planet.
So often when considering the possibility of buying a (larger) house here in Madrid I think I'd REQUIRE a place with a balcony, a terrace, or at least a great view of the skyline or the mountains. Those flats come at a premium price and are hard to find. I hope I can get it someday. Having the simple ability of going "outside" from your own flat - without having to go down to the street level - really does a lot for one's peace of mind. For now, I'm so happy to have that possibility here at my home.
Today, the 5th of January 2008 - in fact, RIGHT NOW - the annual Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos de Oriente are passing down the Paseo de la Castellana and Recoletos to the Plaza de la Cibeles. It all started at 6pm local time.
One can watch LIVE online on internet TV via the TeleMadrid link on MadridMan's Live Radio, TV, Music, and Movies page.
Magic Kings Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltasar are passing down the Castellana of Madrid, tossing thousands of kilos of tiny candies to the awaiting hands of tens of thousands of children. If the children have been good all year the Reyes Magos (a.k.a. "The Three Wise Men") will come to their houses tonight and leave presents. If they've been bad, a big lump of coal will be their only gift.
I left the house at about 5:45pm to go see my local neighborhood Cabalgata de los Reyes, all buzzing with childlike anticipation. The closer I got to the street down which the Cabalgata travels the more people I was passing - GOING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION!! ARGH!! I MISSED IT!!
Kids were looking down into their bulging bags of candies, spying the ones they were going to eat and those they were going to trade. How disappointed I was. AM! Oh well. At least I have the LIVE, Madrid Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos to watch on TV - which I'm doing now. But I was really hoping to see the small-scale, local Cabalgata in person. What a shame. I usually go with my friend Rafael, a local, whom I meet just before the parade. But this last year Rafa moved to another part of Madrid so... Well, I should've checked when it started. My mistake totally.
As already stated, tomorrow is Reyes Magos. So what do families do after ripping open all those wonderful gifts brought by the Magic Kings overnight? Pues, eat a delicious slice of Roscón de Reyes. Inside each Roscón is a tiny toy, usually a small ceramic or plastic doll or figurine. As the rule goes, WHOMEVER gets the toy in their slice - careful not to swallow it!! - that person must buy the next year's roscón. But the truth is, no one ever remembers WHO got the figurine the previous year.
This morning I went to the local bakery at 9:30am and walked inside to find about 30 people waiting in line including the local bar owner, called Paco. I said hello to him and then called out, "Who's Last?" I called out. "I am!", came a voice from afar but I was able to spot him and put my front to his back. More people came in the door, packing us in like sardines. The bakery, already warm, was getting hot!
Finally I got up to the front of the line and I asked for a Roscón de Reyes. "Sorry. We don't have any more for today. But if you come back at 1:30pm we may have one left." Apparently, most intelligent people, knowing it's a busy time, come days in advance to order them and then come today to pick them up - like the bar owner Paco was doing. He walked out with 10! But I wasn't about to go back at 1:30pm with the HOPE of getting a Roscón de Reyes in time for tomorrow - the day of REYES! Dejected, I left, disillusioned and frustrated. NOW WHAT?!
Walked down the sidewalk a little and saw Paco, the bar owner, waved me inside his bar. I entered and told him there were no more Roscónes for sale at that bakery. He said, "Why don't you go across the street to the frutería? They sell them there and they're good. I've had them before." So I thanked him and did just that.
Wow. Had he not given me the tip I'd have simply gone to the next closest bakery to likely find similar lines and get a similar response. So at the fruit store I bought one, a medium size, filled with whipped cream, and had part of it for breakfast. It was so good that I bought another one this afternoon after doing my last-minute shopping, but this one without whipped cream - just in case - for tomorrow morning's breakfast. Still no figurine found!
Tomorrow's Reyes Magos. Hope you all get want you wanted - and NOT a lump of coal.
One can watch LIVE online on internet TV via the TeleMadrid link on MadridMan's Live Radio, TV, Music, and Movies page.
Magic Kings Melchor, Gaspar, and Baltasar are passing down the Castellana of Madrid, tossing thousands of kilos of tiny candies to the awaiting hands of tens of thousands of children. If the children have been good all year the Reyes Magos (a.k.a. "The Three Wise Men") will come to their houses tonight and leave presents. If they've been bad, a big lump of coal will be their only gift.
I left the house at about 5:45pm to go see my local neighborhood Cabalgata de los Reyes, all buzzing with childlike anticipation. The closer I got to the street down which the Cabalgata travels the more people I was passing - GOING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION!! ARGH!! I MISSED IT!!
Kids were looking down into their bulging bags of candies, spying the ones they were going to eat and those they were going to trade. How disappointed I was. AM! Oh well. At least I have the LIVE, Madrid Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos to watch on TV - which I'm doing now. But I was really hoping to see the small-scale, local Cabalgata in person. What a shame. I usually go with my friend Rafael, a local, whom I meet just before the parade. But this last year Rafa moved to another part of Madrid so... Well, I should've checked when it started. My mistake totally.
As already stated, tomorrow is Reyes Magos. So what do families do after ripping open all those wonderful gifts brought by the Magic Kings overnight? Pues, eat a delicious slice of Roscón de Reyes. Inside each Roscón is a tiny toy, usually a small ceramic or plastic doll or figurine. As the rule goes, WHOMEVER gets the toy in their slice - careful not to swallow it!! - that person must buy the next year's roscón. But the truth is, no one ever remembers WHO got the figurine the previous year.This morning I went to the local bakery at 9:30am and walked inside to find about 30 people waiting in line including the local bar owner, called Paco. I said hello to him and then called out, "Who's Last?" I called out. "I am!", came a voice from afar but I was able to spot him and put my front to his back. More people came in the door, packing us in like sardines. The bakery, already warm, was getting hot!
Finally I got up to the front of the line and I asked for a Roscón de Reyes. "Sorry. We don't have any more for today. But if you come back at 1:30pm we may have one left." Apparently, most intelligent people, knowing it's a busy time, come days in advance to order them and then come today to pick them up - like the bar owner Paco was doing. He walked out with 10! But I wasn't about to go back at 1:30pm with the HOPE of getting a Roscón de Reyes in time for tomorrow - the day of REYES! Dejected, I left, disillusioned and frustrated. NOW WHAT?!
Walked down the sidewalk a little and saw Paco, the bar owner, waved me inside his bar. I entered and told him there were no more Roscónes for sale at that bakery. He said, "Why don't you go across the street to the frutería? They sell them there and they're good. I've had them before." So I thanked him and did just that.
Wow. Had he not given me the tip I'd have simply gone to the next closest bakery to likely find similar lines and get a similar response. So at the fruit store I bought one, a medium size, filled with whipped cream, and had part of it for breakfast. It was so good that I bought another one this afternoon after doing my last-minute shopping, but this one without whipped cream - just in case - for tomorrow morning's breakfast. Still no figurine found!
Tomorrow's Reyes Magos. Hope you all get want you wanted - and NOT a lump of coal.
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